[patrician56]

Regarding your question about the original power cord. Here is a photo of my 41-255 power cord. It was a brown plastic (rubber) cord molded with a gromet (strain relief) going into the chassis and a plug molded onto the other end.  I would think that the '41 and '42 models would be similar.

[bridkarl]

Thanks. In the 42-345 it seems like it was the same.
There was just a piece of rubber hose in there as an insulator when I got this so I ended up just opening up the hole and putting in a new 1/4 inch rubber grommet. 

Right now I’m just getting no voltage so I’m trying to diagnose that problem.

[bridkarl]

There was an earlier post by Ron about replacing power switches on radios with push buttons  - a problem I’m dealing with right now.
Just as an update to that - I think I found the identical part he describes still being sold at Lowes - I found it at the end of the electrical fittings aisle on the display with switches. I expect it’s in the same place at allLoees. 
The number is 427662 for $4.68. 

I still need to disassemble this to see if it’s the same but it seems identical. 

In the meantime I carefully bent two tabs underneath the switch cover. There’s a third tab but working with two is enough to get you access to the switch without more extensive removal of the entire push button assembly.

 That allowed me to spray the interior of the switch with De-Oxit Gold - wiping out the excess with a small pipe cleaner. After that I simply exercised the switch 20 or 30 times - which seems to latch correctly.
As I saw no evidence of physical damage or burning I’m hoping this is enough. Boring issue I realize but I thought an explanation might help before someone just cuts a switch off. Cleaning first seems a good idea and I haven’t seen a description of this anywhere.