Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Echophone model s3 no sound
#1

Working on the 5 tube version (three 24's, a 45 and 80) of the 1930 Echophone, this one is a model S3:

   

My chassis appears to be the "improved" schematic version on the bottom.

I replaced all of the caps, save for the two .02 mfd's (I wanted to replace the "tar boxes" and then see if I could coax some sound out of it). I also read a thread on ARF where Norm suggested changing c14 and c16 to 10 mfd electrolytics and eliminate c15 to improve sound and reduce hum, so that's what I did.

So, after trying several tubes, I'm still getting no sound. My voltages are quite erratic as well (See the chart below...I used the mouse to "color" in red the values I'm getting...hence the hen scratching that looks like a 4 year old wrote it Icon_smile )

   

Trying to inject a signal, I get noise that's controllable with the volume control across both the long and short antenna terminals. On the grid of the output tube I get noise, but no noise on the plate of the output tube. On the plate of the detector tube I get noise, but no noise on the grid of the detector tube. The resistors are a bit high (save for the 2 meg which is reading 5 meg) but none are open.

The choke measures about 400 ohms, so that's not open. Speaker field and output transformer are good.

Anyone (paging Terry) have any thoughts on where to zero in on first? It seems to be a relatively simple 5 tube radio but very ancient in design (it has a multi tap, open air transformer that looks pretty scary in itself but it still putting out voltage and not drawing any amps).

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#2

Did you connect the - side of c-14 to the chassis?
Does it ave the original spkr that has a tap in the field coil winding?

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#3

>>Did you connect the - side of c-14 to the chassis?

No, the neg side is going to the choke and transformer.

>>Does it ave the original spkr that has a tap in the field coil winding?

It's a Jensen speaker that looks to be a replacement, but it DOES have the tap in the field coil. That checks out good.

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#4

How much - voltage do you have from the ct of the hv winding to the chassis? Need abt -50v. With -1.7v on the grid of the 45 the plate current is going to be pretty high. Disconnect one end of the C-5 and see with the - voltage increases. If C-5 is leaky that will apply + voltage to the grid of the 45, not good.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

I jumped the gun a bit and should've just went ahead and replace the two .02 caps and the resistor bank. That revealed an open 1 meg resistor, a bad solder joint at the non-grounded .02, and some bad solder joints around the speaker plug. Happy to report she is singing tonight and actually sounding pretty good for an 89 year old radio. Voltages are there where they should be now. What a strange power transformer, though. Just by moving the fuse between terminals 84 to 85 or 85 to 86 you can go from 110 volts to 125!

Greg V.
West Bend, WI
Member WARCI.org
#6

The 2nd .02 (goes from from the output trans to gnd) could be reduced in value to brighten up the sound a bit, to .01 or .005 mfd.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
A DMM is good enough. One rarely has to measure indictance, but if you do, short of getting a serious LCR meter (I hav...morzh — 07:35 PM
Testing a speaker and output transformer Trutone A2-G
You guy's are right on. I found a broken wire on the speaker plug that I replaced and all is well now. Have better volu...murf — 03:43 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I need to get a vtvm. I think that little component tester is just more accurate. Plus it shows the inductance which is ...Stormlord5500 — 03:07 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I use a pair of Mastercraft brand DMMs from Canadian Tire, from what I read most of those DMMs use the same main chip re...Arran — 02:36 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Thank you sir. Yes I feel good and also relieved because this one's been weighing on me a bit.Stormlord5500 — 11:18 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
It feels good don't it? Good luck on the rest.Paul Philco322 — 11:06 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I've reinstalled the coil. Now IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! I fired up my TinySA on signal generator mode and set it to 1400Kc and ...Stormlord5500 — 11:01 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Yes, Walmart, right up there with Fluke.RodB — 11:00 AM
PT 6 chassis screws size???
it certainly won't be metric! SAE threads were all that was known then. Take care, - GaryGarySP — 10:58 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I think this thing is way more accurate than my Walmart DMM. :DStormlord5500 — 08:19 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1597 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 1594 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>