Posts: 44
Threads: 5
Joined: Jan 2012
City: Concord, NC
Hello to all,
Been hanging around here awhile, and am now in need of some of the resident expertise.
Rebuilding a 37-610T, my phirst Philco. Mainly Crosleys in the past. Recapped, replaced about 1/2 of the resistors, did not check/replace micas (although there are enough problems with this radio to warrant a closer look).
In attempting to align, I noticed that adjusting the primary on the 2nd IF transformer produced no effect. I gently tapped the side of the can, and produced a continuous buzz. So now I have to get in there and find the problem.
However, I cannot get the can cover to separate from the coil. I am afraid to go postal with this thing, so if someone has had experience with this, how do I get that can cover off?
Thanks, and I will likely have need of some more help as I work through this basket case. BTW, found out that I am a big fan of that floating RF section.
Richard
Richard
Posts: 2,128
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2008
City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Picture please, top and bottom of IF can.
Posts: 44
Threads: 5
Joined: Jan 2012
City: Concord, NC
Sorry, no ability to post a picture at this point. Do have the clips securing it to the chassis off, and cannot see much of the bottom. I suppose that I will have to desolder its connections and then try to see what the problem is unless someone else has any ideas.
Thanks though, Codefox, for the rapid reply.
Richard
Richard
Posts: 13,776
Threads: 580
Joined: Sep 2005
City: Ferdinand
State, Province, Country: Indiana
There is a nut at top center of the IF can, in between the two adjusting holes. Carefully remove this nut, and the shield should slide right off since you have already removed the clips from the chassis that hold the entire IF can in place.
Good luck.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
Thanks, Ron.
I agree that is what should happen, but with nut removed, clips off the side, the can will not slide off.
So I am going to desolder it tonight and see what gives. I am presuming due to the nature of the problem I have a broken/loose wire somewhere in the can, and I should put on some new wiring in any case. After all, this has got to be simpler than that RF section (?).
Just obtained a 40-150 as the next project, but have to get this one buttoned up first. I presume this new acquisition will have a lot of rubber wiring, and having redone a few Crosleys of that era, I know what to expect.
BTW, love the site. This is a great service to all us rookie Philco Phanatics.
Richard
Posts: 2,128
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2008
City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Could be a bunch of crud on the thread of locking screw, blast it off with deoxit. If clip is removed, see that there are no bent members below chassis, including soldered to tabs, don't know, unfamiliar with this model. Whatever, go slow, agree you should unsolder and document connections. BTY get a little digital camera that can do macro to record your progress. Cheap enough, and worth their weight in gold.
Sometimes there is just an accumulation of wax and other stuff that needs to be "broken" to free mechanical connections. Not a science but an art. Gently probe this possibility.
Posts: 44
Threads: 5
Joined: Jan 2012
City: Concord, NC
Success!
De-soldered and removed from chassis. Once I had removed it , I found a small dollop of solder at the base of the can which was not allowing the coil form to slide out.
Found and repaired a broken wire to the secondary coil, but also found a 51K resistor across the secondary trimmer which was not on the schematic. Still at 51K, so I left it. Cleaned, reassembled, attached fresh lead wire, and was able to align.
I am wondering if I should make a habit of opening IF transformers if indeed Philco made a habit of putting other components in there?
Yes, I gotta get a camera one of these days. I usually document my work in notebooks, but a visual record would admittedly be better.
Thanks again,
Richard
Richard
Posts: 2,128
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2008
City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Glad you got it. Generally those parts indicated on the schematic and not otherwise found are in the can. Once I get one of these apart I replace any discrete component I find so I'll never have to do it again (I'm old.)
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