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Philco 41-221 Questions
#1

I'm just about finishing up rewiring and replacing all caps and resistors in a 41-221 (which I am convinced the devil himself came up with this chassis design and the rubber wires), and have two questions.

First one is on the dial string. It looks like it should be fairly straight forward, but I want to confirm. On the tuning capacitor is a single pulley with a hook in the groove of the pulley. Do you just put one end of the string around the spring, put the prong on the hook, wind it around the knob shaft once or twice, then connect to the other end of the spring? That is the only way I can see it working, but there was no straining info in the copies of the service notes I got from Chuck.

Second is, what to do with the big asbestos pad under the chassis? I'm not sure if it's glued to the bottom of the cabinet or not. Is there something you can apply to it to seal it, and leave it in place? I am replacing the Candohm with 2 large ceramics (a 5w and a 10w for the larger section). Is heat going to be an issue under the chassis?

Thanks,

-Nick
#2

The asbestos pad can be cut up into 1-inch triangles and served with cheese-whiz as delightful party Hors D Oeuvres.

You can also use the stuff melted out of bakelite-block capacitors as a topping.
#3

If it makes you feel better you can encapsulate the asbestos with a high-heat engine paint, but the less you disturb it the better.

Sometimes, if you don't have a diagram, you just have to do trial and error until you get the dial string correct. Just make sure the dial is going in the right direction when tuning and it travels the length of the dial scale before nailing it all down.

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"
#4

I know the less you disturb it, the better. But I'm just not sure how much of it (if any) would make its way out if I just plop the chassis back in.

I tried a couple things with the dial string, and cant seem to get it right. I'm assuming I'm working with the original spring and cord. But I may not be. Hopefully Ron can help out. I know he has a 41-226, which is essentially the same chassis (with the exception of push button tuning). Maybe he can look at his and tell me how it should be strung.
#5

Listen, Big Bad Asbestos is not as bad when dealt with every once in a while in small quantity.
You need top work with it for a while and keep inhaling to get problems.

How many people do you know who had those old irons in 50-60s, who replaced the heating element multiple times, and for that you'd have to lif off that asbestos sheet covering the element, and the sheet often eventually start falling apart so you would put it back as two pieces next to each other - how many of them (which is pretty much every person who was concsious in those times) have asbestosis/mesothelioma? None. Except those who worked profesisonally removing asbestos and such without adequate protection.
#6

That is true. But it's always in your best interest to limit exposure as much as possible. It may be virtually harmless in this case. Especially since I didn't work in a shipyard or brake manufacturing plant in the 40s. But that doesn't mean I don't want to minimize exposure.
#7

Heat shouldn't be any more problem under the chassis than it was with the Candohm resistor. The Candohms dissipated some of their heat into the metal of the chassis, but it should still be OK. Lots of folks replace Candohms this way without problems.

If the power resistors have flat surfaces, you can press them against chassis and get some heat transfer that way, but it isn't necessary. You can even put thermal compound on the resistors.

John Honeycutt
#8

Nick, see if this diagram helps.

Ron




Attached Files Image(s)
   

Bendix 0626.      RCA T64  Philco 20B
Philco 41-250.    Philco49-500
GE 201.             Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-420     Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116.    Philco 70
AK 35                Philco 46-350
Philco 620B.       Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B.         Majestic 50
Philco 52-944.    AK 84 
#9

Nick, I just acquired a 41-221 and need to string the dial cord. The above diagram Ron posted is nothing like mine. Have you gotten yours stringed and if so could you give me instructions on how. I have a book on stringing diagrams, however this one is not listed. Also is there anything I need to know on restoring this one? How can you tell if the Candohm is bad? Thanks...
#10

you can "wet" it up real good,,,in order to remove it,,if that is what you want to do,,,,to make you feel SAFE,,put it isn a sandwich bag,,,and in the trash,,,or do what they did with the trains from New York,,,which was Loaded with it,,,,,they dump them in the ocean for the fish to live in,,,,which now are completely rotted apart,, and caved in now




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