[OldRestorer]

What a beautiful chassis the Kadette has.

All blue and clean. I got real lucky as someone re-coned the speaker too.

[Eliot Ness]

That is a pretty chassis.  In your picture what is the large tube on the left front?  It looks like it might be a ballast tube, and it sure has a neat array of filaments in it.

[OldRestorer]

Send me your dial pointer Arran

I believe it is an 878 ballast but not 100% sure.

Kirk

[PhilcoJohn]

Great work I wish I had the same skills!!! GREAT JOB!

[OldRestorer]

I didnt do anything to it, just cleaned the dust off the tubes and chassis.

Kirk

[OldRestorer]

BACK in action!

[mikethedruid]

I noticed in the discussion talk about foggish plastic dial lenses because of oxidation causing micro cracking of the surface. I wonder if anyone has tried the poly polish that they use to restore plastic car headlight lenses on them ? I haven't, but I may next time I run into the problem, as it just occurred to me. I wonder if anyone here has tried it before me ?

[morzh]

I started from the beginning of the thread and I read "Stripping and cleaning a few feces".....then reread, and realized "few pieces" became "feces".
What a morning.

[OldRestorer]

Why? is it a crappy day?

Me

[Arran]

I noticed in the discussion talk about foggish plastic dial lenses because of oxidation causing micro cracking of the surface. I wonder if anyone has tried the poly polish that they use to restore plastic car headlight lenses on them ? I haven't, but I may next time I run into the problem, as it just occurred to me. I wonder if anyone here has tried it before me ?

 In the case of the Kadette, and many other sets with a celluloid dial lens you are dealing with what is essentially a thicker plastic film that was heated and molded into the required shape, headlight or taillight lenses are considerably thicker, maybe 3/32''of an inch at it's thinnest verses 1/32 at it's thickest for the celluloid, but maybe closer to .030'' of an inch. I don't think that it would be possible to buff or polish the cracking out of one of these, especially the Kadette, the cracking is on both sides and deep enough that there really would not be anything left of the plastic afterward.
Regards
Arran

[kiwi_steve]

That Kadette looks nice apart from the scottish inspired grill cloth... it has a very interesting output circuit as mentioned by Arran... I've never seen that before... what do you call it, Push-Push output?    

   


How hard is poly to get off?  I feel guilty every time I use the stuff now... not quite guilty enough to not use it though   I've got one small cabinet I'm going to try and strip at some point just to see... that might stop me using the stuff if nothing else (including removal of manly parts with blunt rusty kitchen implements by certain members of Eastern European descent) does... 

[mikethedruid]

I noticed in the discussion talk about foggish plastic dial lenses because of oxidation causing micro cracking of the surface. I wonder if anyone has tried the poly polish that they use to restore plastic car headlight lenses on them ? I haven't, but I may next time I run into the problem, as it just occurred to me. I wonder if anyone here has tried it before me ?

 In the case of the Kadette, and many other sets with a celluloid dial lens you are dealing with what is essentially a thicker plastic film that was heated and molded into the required shape, headlight or taillight lenses are considerably thicker, maybe 3/32''of an inch at it's thinnest verses 1/32 at it's thickest for the celluloid, but maybe closer to .030'' of an inch. I don't think that it would be possible to buff or polish the cracking out of one of these, especially the Kadette, the cracking is on both sides and deep enough that there really would not be anything left of the plastic afterward.
Regards
Arran

These polishes don't wear down the old plastic, they lay down a thin layer of new plastic over the old as a liquid which fills the old scratches and cracks, and is buffed off the surface with a very smooth cloth. The result makes the scratches and dullness much less visible. The only other solution I can think of is to make a wooden mold that replicates the inside of your present dial cover, and make a new one with clear plastic with a vacu-forming outfit.

[Ron Ramirez]

...it has a very interesting output circuit as mentioned by Arran... I've never seen that before...

That is a parallel output circuit. Notice how the elements of both tubes (plate, screen grid, control grid) are connected together?

I saw that type of output in a Silver-Marshall I restored for someone many years ago. It worked quite well.

[OldRestorer]

Kiwi,
Making a dial cover is not that hard.
I made a tutorial on the forum a while ago with step by step instructions....

Let me look.....

Here:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...dial+cover

Once I finish the others cabinets I will get to these If I can reach them from off the shelves
I have 4' of tubes and record players in the way...

Cluttered me...

P.S. Not nice Sam... Not at all