[joybird]

Can't find a listing on this one.
Assume it is a .01 Block

It was changed at some point according to Philco to 3903 SG . Nothing on it either.

Bob T

[klondike98]

Yes is a 0.01 uF cap as seen below:

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...903-AH.jpg]

3903-SG would be a lower melting point wax than the 3903-0SG  (the O was for higher temp wax) but should have the same configuration.  See Ron's post of Bakelite Condenser Data or Chuck's Bakelite Block Values page.

[joybird]

Yes is a 0.01 uF cap as seen below:

[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...903-AH.jpg]

3903-SG would be a lower melting point wax than the 3903-0SG  (the O was for higher temp wax) but should have the same configuration.  See Ron's post of Bakelite Condenser Data or Chuck's Bakelite Block Values page.

Thank you Sir. Only 6 more to go on the 16

Bob T

[klondike98]

If you have not seen it, here is a nice thread on restuffing these caps.

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=9107

[joybird]

If you have not seen it, here is a nice thread on restuffing these caps.  

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=9107

I use to use my Commercial Heat Gun to remove the Blocks. No More

Before Doing this Procedure check and know what your Block Contains. Blocks containing Resistors DO NOT DRILL


Now I have used the method by cutting the wires on top of Block where the inside parts are soldered. Then drilling a small size drill dead center of Tar , yes drill right on through the Caps inside.

Once you have drilled to the Bakelite, stop.  Then I use a fine thread sheet rock screw 1 1/2" long
Thread it in slowly into your drilled hole with a Phillips screwdriver. You will be amazed as you seen the entire Tar block Caps and all slowly come out.

Has not failed me yet.
Been using it on the 14 Block 16B I am working on.
Just remember to FIRST cut the wires on top where the internal parts are soldered to.

This is not my idea, I believe I saw this method over on Chuck's Site.


Bob T