Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12, 2025) x

Thread Closed

Picking up a 37-690
#1

I was feeling a bit crazy the other night and bought a 37-690. Now I have to pick it up and get it home. The plan is to remove both chassis, possibly the main speaker and maybe the doors. I'll be loading it on its back into a VW Golf hatchback which served perfectly well for moving a 38-2. But I only paid $25 for that at Kutztown. So here are my disassembly and moving questions:

How do I disconnect the cables from the lower chassis?
- The "tweeters". I can't tell if they have connectors or are soldered (if so I'll snip close or unsolder).
- The main speaker. I'm pretty sure it has a connector like the 38-2.
- The other two cables have connectors I can unplug from the chassis.

Should I remove the main speaker? It's big and probably heavy. But messing with it has some element danger should I do something dumb. If it's held in place well I'd prefer to just let it be.

Do the doors come off easily? That would lighten the cabinet a bit.

For the top I'm planning to get some of the cushioning stuff they sell for placing around the sides and corners of table tops for moving. The rest of the cabinet I'll probably bubble wrap and cover in a moving blanket(s). I'll plan to hold it all in place with some of the plastic wrap stuff they sell for packing. I'll keep the dial scale covered especially if it even hints of rain...

Did I forget anything important?

Thanks...

Can't think of anything witty.
Greg O.
Whitehall, PA
#2

> How do I disconnect the cables from the lower chassis?

Each cable has a connector which is held in place on the chassis by a single small 1/4" bolt. Remove the bolt and unplug the connector.

> The "tweeters". I can't tell if they have connectors or are soldered (if so I'll snip close or unsolder).

Each tweeter has four wires going to it. Remove a cover from the back (again, your 1/4" socket wrench, remove two bolts), which will reveal that each wire terminates in a push pin type connector. Unplug each wire, noting how they reconnect to the tweeter for reassembly. Take notes. You will need this information later upon reassembly. Now pull the wires down to the bottom of the chassis. If the insulation cracks don't get upset, you can replace the wires with new cloth-covered wire later.

> The main speaker. I'm pretty sure it has a connector like the 38-2.

Correct. First look to see if there is a screw in the connector holding it in place. You can't unplug it unless the screw is removed. It's a small flat head screw. Remove it, then unplug the connector. The screw may be missing if the set had been serviced in the past.

> The other two cables have connectors I can unplug from the chassis.

Correct.

> Should I remove the main speaker?

If you aren't going a long distance then just make sure the two bolts and nuts holding the woofer in place are tight and you should be fine. This will, of course, add weight to an already heavy (around 100 pounds) cabinet.

If you're traveling a very long distance or if you plan to encounter very bumpy roads, then remove the woofer. Again, it is held in place by two bolts, two nuts, and two flat washers. I do not remember the size of the nuts.

> Do the doors come off easily?

Not that I am aware of. I would not mess with them. Get help with loading and unloading. Your back will thank you.

Oh - Congratulations, be careful, drive safely, and enjoy!

...and don't forget, get help with loading and unloading!

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Greg

From the experience of transporting a 38-690 from MD to NJ.

I did not disconnect speakers, no should you unless removing chassis requires that (doubt it, all speakers are likely connectorized).

I pulled out main chassis only, left the lower amp/power unit chassis inside.

The transporting in my Jeep GC went just fine.

PS. Make sure the speakers are held like they should be, securely, no loose bolts.
PPS. If the cabinet is to be refinished, it is not important if you put it face down. If it is not, put some soft clean blankets under the radio. This way speaker has no way of detaching and falling.
PPS. You will need screwdrivers for disassembly; I do not remember anything else needed.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#4

Thanks for the info. I have my tool box loaded and ready to go...

This one will probably go into the queue for a while. I have a few ahead of it.

Can't think of anything witty.
Greg O.
Whitehall, PA
#5

(12-09-2016, 09:54 PM)Greg Wrote:  Thanks for the info. I have my tool box loaded and ready to go...

This one will probably go into the queue for a while. I have a few ahead of it.

Do remove the chassis or make certain it is screwed in well... ask me how I know this... nuts, I'll tell ya... went to Janesville, Wisconsin a few years back to pick up a beauty... rented a trailer... too stooopid or lazy to remove the chassis... ONE screw holding in the tuner chassis... screw backed out, chassis rode back, dropped off the knobs behind the doors, and they rubbed the daylights out of the doors and bottom of the inside of the doors on the ride back to Allentown... wish you better results!!!!

Jim




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 71 Code 125
Ok guys. Thanks for the input. As for AI this is why I ask the experts. Dandconant — 07:39 AM
Philco 71 Code 125
Technically, that's C-. B- is chassis ground. The resistor between chassis ground and the HV center tap makes the HV c...MrFixr55 — 11:24 PM
54C Cabinet Refinish
hello Roy, I’d follow Arran’s suggestion and use automotive gasket material, which I keep around for situations like th...radiorich — 10:22 PM
Philco 71 Code 125
This might be one of those cases where it's a ground to an AC voltage and B- to DC.RodB — 08:22 PM
Philco 71 Code 125
Really Rod? I know you would not steer me wrong but AI say this is a short circuit? What if I moved the 6 volt center ta...dconant — 06:40 PM
54C Cabinet Refinish
Roy; Personally I would have left the asbestos alone if it were my set, but you can find a modern substitute that som...Arran — 04:51 PM
Philco 71 Code 125
Looks like that might be the B- buss, so that would be correct.RodB — 01:32 PM
Philco 71 Code 125
I noticed on the code 121 schematic the center tap for the 6 volt winding and hv winding are tied together. Is this corr...dconant — 12:16 PM
Philco 45-6365 Universal IFT Instruction Manual
The Philco Parts Catalog for 1942 shows it as usable for 175 kHz, 260 kHz, and 465 kHz. The instructions will show how t...DaleHCook — 11:19 AM
Stromberg Carlson 1500 Squeal
Hello Rob, I agree with you—I have one here at my house that I need to check out. It’s way over-engineered just to make...radiorich — 11:05 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>