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Bakelite block 3615-A
#1

How is the 3615-A bakelite block wired?  I checked the list for Philco bakelite blocks.  They have all the suffixes under the sun but -A. I'm recapping a Philco Model 60.
#2

How's it configured in the schematic?

Good luck with the project and all of us here are expecting a full report when you're finished.
#3

Kestas....I approved your post that responded to Jim because it appeared on my screen to need approval, then I saw two identical posts and deleted one of them. I now realize your post should not have needed approval since you are well past 2 initial posts. I don't know quite what happened but I am probably the cause of your post disappearing...my apologies!!! Icon_redface Please try again....thanks!! What radio is this for?

I don't think there was a block 3615-A, at least I also don't find it in Bulletin 289 or Chuck's repair site.  Its also not listed in Ray Blintliff's Philco Condensers and More 4th ed. book.  

Here's what Ray has for 3615-AA

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ez9ognly6tuxer....jpg?raw=1]
#4

I went back with better light and rubbed off the smut. The bakelite block is a 3615-AJ. It matches the information I have in the Riders copy. Sorry for the misinformation.
#5

if your mounting screw comes loose or whatever, thats the primary point of chassis ground.
solder a jumper on the ground spot to a near by chassis ground, then daisy chain that across and out to any additional filter caps that also need ground.
#6

(04-26-2017, 08:55 AM)jcassity Wrote:  if your mounting screw comes loose or whatever, thats the primary point of chassis ground.
...


Under the bakelite block there should be a star type lock washer that helps keep things from loosening. I've not heard of folks having a problem with them.
#7

im not that experienced in real past / known problems, but i saw it in my mind playing out the problem.  Thinking it through i decided to hard wire / solder the actual bakalite filter cap tab directly to a bonded point and daisy chain all the other important reference ground points as well.

THis is something i add to my very short list of recommendations to others who tinker with these tube radios.. along with poloarized chords, inline fuse etc.

now that you put my cross hairs on this topic, spmeone here told me that i dont need an isolation transformer for my radio because i have one already by design.  however,, if the primary side filter caps are bonded to the chassis and as well, the secondary filter caps are bonded to the chassis, then the primary is not totally isolated from the secondary !!,,,  seems to me a 3 prong input chord would solve this issue.  the input filter caps ground would need disconnected from chassis and reterminated to the green third prong of the input chord. 

sorry, hijack of thread over,,, just thinking out loud.




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