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Stuck bandswitch on 620
#1

Hi all,

I just picked up one of the cleansest Philco 620F consoles I have ever seen.  The only problem I see in restoring it is... the bandswitch it frozen tight.  Before I do something to accidently destroy this new treasure, I need your collective wisdom.  How do I get it unstuck???  I imagine if there was grease, it's long since solidified.  So, what now?

Thamks in advance for your help!


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#2

Might try a little WD 40 would use a Q-tip not a direct spray may take several days to get things working.
#3

Using a light penetrating oil, or WD-40, drip it onto all the moving components, then slowly heat the areas using a heatgun. (Careful not to overheat adjacent components)
Gently work the selector shaft back and forth until it frees up. (small vise grips work well)
Once free, use alcohol with a small brush or Q-tip and clean off ALL the old grease.
Then add fresh lubricant. (I like to use white lithium grease)
Hope this helps!
#4

This is where a "TrolMaster" , a device that screws onto the threads of the shaft and allows you to force cleaner/lubricant past the shaft bearing, would be ideal.

Ron


Attached Files Image(s)
   

Bendix 0626.      RCA 8BX5.   RCA T64
Philco 41-250.    Philco49-500
GE 201.             Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42        Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116.    Philco 70
AK 35                Philco 46-350
Philco 620B.       Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B.         Majestic 50
Philco 52-944.    AK 84
#5

First do a careful up-close inspection. Wiggle-rotate the unit at different locations to bracket the very point where it is seized. Then put liquid penetrant on that point.
#6

Be very carefull with it.

Unlike the switch in the Philco 60/66 which is a cylinder inside another cylinder, in these switches there is little mechanical possibility to really seize something. Possible but the ferrule is relatively short so with good effort it would probably rotate.

This is why before applying effort do make sure it is not one of the wafers that got really stuck, as if you try to overpower it it could break contacts.

Hopefully it is indeed the ferrule and some PB Blaster and heat (and then a lubricant) would do the trick.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#7

Assuming you have a Weller gun, higher watts the better...

After checking for wafer damage, put a secure clamp on the shaft that won't damage the shaft.

Prepare the Weller gun by removing the tip, using another set of tip nuts make two 2" wire extensions from the gun using some #12 or #10 wire. For into a "V" to wedge the shaft and/or the threaded collar.

Apply a tiny drop of the lightest oil around or mineral oil to the shaft/collar. Apply the Weller tool so current flows trough the shaft or the collar. This will effectively heat the assembly in about 5 minutes the hard grease will liquefy. Apply gentile torque, once the shaft moves even a bit apply more oil and heat, repeat until full movement is made. As the shaft cools continue gentile movement while applying fresh light oil. Shaft should be completely free when cool.

YMMV

Chas

Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
#8

Find what is stuck before doing anything:

https://www.russoldradios.com/blog/whats...can-happen

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#9

Well. it actually worked. I bought some Blaster this morning and a new small visegrip plier.

Not perfect but a start... it will at least slowly move now.

Thanks for the advice and input. It's great to know there is a real pool of experience to lean on in this group.




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