Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Ron's RCA T7-5 Electronic Rescue

What does rating "A" signify stamped on chassis back side?

Paul

Tubetalk1

105-125 volts, 50-60 cycles.

There was also a rating "B" = 105-125 volts, 25-60 cycles; and a rating "C" = 100-130/140-160/195-250 volts, 40-60 cycles.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN

Hey, I know this thread is over a year old but it has and will be a great help for me as I am restoring this radio as well.

Thanks Ron

Jim
Spring Lake MI

Hey Jim, you live just down the road a piece. I'd like to see what you have sometime!

I just read through this whole thread. Ron's radio is virtually identical to my T8-18, except for not having the tuning eye tube. It was very interesting to see how we approached certain problems differently. I used a small pair of very thin needle nosed pliers slipped behind the pointer, and liberal PB Blaster applied to the shaft using a little paint brush, and managed to free it up to remove it. Mine had all replacement electrolytics, and I am not as much of a purist as Ron, so, with plenty of room beneath the chassis, I simply replaced the caps on the underside with new electrolytics with higher voltage ratings, 2 10 MFD and 1 20MFD. We both encountered the exact same candohm gone bad, and the same remaining good. My bad one had both sections gone, so I merely soldered new resistors of suitable wattage across the gaps in the candohm. Both our speakers were bad, and neither had a center spider. I don't think they originally had one. He sent his away, and I rebuilt mine myself. It was really interesting to read through the thread. Brought back a lot of memories of repairing mine. It now works great. I have been listening to the playoffs and now to the world series on it, sometimes on stations as far away as Chicago and Cincinnati. Great radios ! Tonight I am listening on WRVA 1140 in Richmond, VA. It's coming in like it was next door, not more than 300 miles.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Ok MrFixr55,  I have tried the DeoxIT D5 on the band switch and even though it has relieved the tension I felt when turn...osanders0311 — 11:11 AM
Part numbers to model cross
Is there a reference somewhere where you can punch in Philco part numbers and see what models those parts were used in?Jim Dutridge — 10:17 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Hi OSanders, Look carefully at the band switch. Turn it slowly and "wiggle" it around the desired band. ...MrFixr55 — 12:33 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
I think that RCA and GE introduced metal tubes in the USA in 1936.  I don't know if they were being made by RCA, GE or b...MrFixr55 — 11:20 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Vlad95, Thank you for the stringing guides and wow there are so manyosanders0311 — 06:01 PM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
A pre war Hallicrafters, and an early one too, very nice! 1936 is pretty early for metal tubes too, which would explain ...Arran — 05:58 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Thanks Rod, "When you hear the background hiss and no station it usually indicates that the oscillator quit" ...osanders0311 — 05:52 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
RodB :beerchug:Vlad95 — 10:22 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Vlad, you nailed it. Swiss and German roots.RodB — 09:54 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
Well this is a Hallicrafters SX/9 circa 1936. No real issues so far although I dodged a real bullet with a cap that was...bridkarl — 07:59 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1645 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 1644 Guest(s)
Avatar

>