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Philco 610 Resisters Question
#1

i am working on a Philco 610 and have a couple of questions. Basic stuff for most of you but not for me. My radio adio appears to be a later run but I don’t know the actual run number. 

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013797.pdf

I read up on all the changes on the parts list with the three electrolytic #54, #56 and #41 as well as the change of #39 and #40 resisters.

In the photo of my radio, resister #40 is connected to bakelite block 15. I believe these are duo 19K resisters in parrallel, that calculate to 9.5K. The problem is, I think this should be a 25K resistor.  

Resistor #39 in my radio is duo 45K parrallel resisters that calculate to 22.5 K. My question is, should these two resisters be switched when I replace them and what wattage should I use? I have seen other photos of a 610 chassis and their 9K/10K dogbone resisters looked huge.

Resister #42 in the photo of my radio is a 25K and just looking to confirm that it should be a 32K. It connects to Pin 4 of the 6A7 and the 16 mfd electrolytic.

I do have one more question. Electrolytic #54 on my radio has the cardboard insulator on it but it’s negative connection goes to the CT on #57 resister. Am I reading this correctly? I thought that these insulating sleeves required you to connect to the tab on the side of the electrolytic and keep it isolated from the chassis.

Love this hobby but as you can tell...I’ve got a lot to learn. Any assistance is greatly appreciated!


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#2

I would start by replacing R 39,40,42 the Ecap 20UF on the negative side needs some solder.
#3

Thanks David but you didn’t actually answer any of my questions. Whether #39 and #40 should be reversed, what the wattage should be and whether the #42 should be a 32K.

The 20 mfd is just there to remind me where it was connected to those three resisters.

No offense and I appreciate the prompt response but I was hoping for a little more clarity.
#4

I would go with 1 watt because of the longer leeds. Check the hook up with the info from nostaligaair since repairs were made in the past double check everything.
#5

Put the part# in the search box and hit enter. You'll find the answer below the box.

https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...resistors/

Here's a little cleaner diagram. https://philcoradio.com/library/download...20217B.pdf

Yes the 1st electrolytic cap's (aka input cap) - side of 55/56 is NOT connected to the chassis. The cardboard sleeve isolates so that the power supply a produce - bias voltage for the output tube's control grid. The 2nd cap aka the output cap the - side is connected to the chassis.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#6

Hello Hamilton,
What a great Project I restored a Philco 610B many years ago and it works great
When I restored mine I stuffed the electrolytic capacitors into the original Cans !

Yes 1watt is what I used to replace mine too .

Sincerely Richard
#7

Hi all, I did reverse what the owner before me had done with the #39 and #40 resisters. I then fired it up on my dim bulb and it was receiving stations. I’ll do the rest of the bakelite blocks and out of value resistors and see how it sounds then.




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