Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 645K chassis removal - need help
#1

Three of us at our museum attempted to remove the chassis for a 1936 645K art deco console, only to be stymied and mystified.

There are two rear under-chassis hold down screws, which we removed.  After pulling all the knobs, we attempted to pull the chassis
to the rear of the cabinet.  It wouldn't budge.

After carefully eyeballing the cabinet from the front, and also from the inside, none of us could see any screws that appeared to be holding the chassis in place.  Yet, further tugging with more force had no effect.

I guess it is possible that the chassis is just seized to the wood and we need to coax it harder.  But, if someone has a better suggestion based on experience, we'd sure appreciate your guidance.

Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.

ASHEVILLE RADIO MUSEUM
www.avlradiomuseum.org


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#2

Other than the screws from the bottom (typically 4) and the knobs there is nothing to hold it.
It could be seized. Try to gently rock it, see if you hear that crunching noise of crumbling gaskets. THose are made of some sort of rubber that in time hardens and glues to what it was touching. You probably just need to try to run a large flat scredriwer between the rear of the chassis and the shelf it is mount on, lever it up, and see if the chassis will start moving with that crunchy crackling noise.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#3

It looks like this chassis is similar to my 650X. There's the 2 Bolts at the back and the knobs to remove. There's two locator studs on each side of the chassis front. The bottom ones are bare and the top ones each have a large rubber shock grommets. In addition, the 2 chassis bolts went through large rubber grommets that can drop out the bottom of the cabinet cross member support. Try shifting the rear of the chassis back and forth.




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
Hello musar, First all welcome to the forum and yes that is true that steve stopped making trim . Sincerely Richar...radiorich — 12:13 AM
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
I have recently come into possession of a Model 70.  The trim around the base needs to be replaced.  If this were years ...musar — 12:07 AM
philcorepairbench.com - shadow-meter
Anyone know of a way to recover these files from the repair bench? Thanks. fenbach — 11:16 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
That's true. Of course If I were to get a vtvm I'd probably have to sink money in to it to get it working right. Probabl...Stormlord5500 — 08:44 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
A DMM is good enough. One rarely has to measure indictance, but if you do, short of getting a serious LCR meter (I hav...morzh — 07:35 PM
Testing a speaker and output transformer Trutone A2-G
You guy's are right on. I found a broken wire on the speaker plug that I replaced and all is well now. Have better volu...murf — 03:43 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I need to get a vtvm. I think that little component tester is just more accurate. Plus it shows the inductance which is ...Stormlord5500 — 03:07 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I use a pair of Mastercraft brand DMMs from Canadian Tire, from what I read most of those DMMs use the same main chip re...Arran — 02:36 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Thank you sir. Yes I feel good and also relieved because this one's been weighing on me a bit.Stormlord5500 — 11:18 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
It feels good don't it? Good luck on the rest.Paul Philco322 — 11:06 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>