[radiorich]

Hello jeff,
Far as C8,C11 50ufd ,25volt ECE-A1EN470UB , 667-ECE-A1EN470UB
far as C8,C11 make sure you use Bi-Polar/Non-Polar Electrolytic Capacitors

I put the right part numbers for 47ufd Bi-polar capacitor .
I just made a mistake because I was also filling my mouser order online for equipment that I am repairing .
Far as C-6,C-9 here is the correction
C6,C9 100ufd, 3 volt 10volt EEU-FR1A101, 667-EEU-FR1A101
originally C6,C9 were 3 volt rated capacitors the new ones are rated at 10 volts .

Sincerely Richard

[Jeffcon]

Thanks a lot Richard! I did order and got the capacitors for C6 an C9. Being a total newbie to this yet a person that tries to pay attention to detail, I was just concerned with the description of EEU-FR1A101 as 10VDC 100uf. No other capacitors i ordered have "VDC" after voltage number, just a "V". My ignorance to how these work lends caution to forging ahead. Does "VDC" mean DC voltage? Does that matter? I have zero clue and am trusting more experienced folks such as yourself.
Thanks again, Jeffcon

[radiorich]

Hello jeffcon,
Yes, VDC just means Direct Current or DC and all electrolytic capacitors are rated for DC .
glad you got your order in and I am getting ready to order again from Mouser which I have been buying from since the mid 80s great company .

Sincerely Richard

[Jeffcon]

Thanks again Radiorich! I’m breathing deeply, shaking out my fears from lack of confidence, and delving into this unfamiliar new world of “recapping” (never desoldered/soldered anything smaller than a water pipe fitting) for the first time. 
I’m just ignoring the massive size difference of the old vs new capacitors and configurations. I’ll do my best to insulate from shorting them etc.. I’m glad I bought two of each just in case!

[radiorich]

Hello Jeffcon,
one word advice take a lot of photos also on the old capacitors you will see some kind of marking like either neg or a plus symbol.
I like to use a sharpy and put marking on the circuit board to show direction so to make sure you get them in right there are only two capacitors, that is C8,C11 you don't need to worry about and them is because they are bipolar.

Sincerely Richard

[MrFixr55]

Hi Jeff,

First off, you are in the right direction, getting the Sams Schematic for the set.  Secondly, you are getting great advice (as usual) from RadioRich.

You are not going to find exact fit caps and you don't need to.  For example, "this 1000 cap. 50v 65deg.Celsius chassis mount tab capacitor" can be replaced by a 1,000 uF 50WVDC axial lead capacitor.  You may have to get clever in how the cap is mounted.  Due to new electrolyte formulations, these caps are often much smaller than the 50- 60 year old caps that they are replacing.

Electrolytic capacitors are generally rated for capacity in uF (microfarads) and in "WVDC" (Working Volts, Direct Current).  Electrolytic capacitors are generally polarized and installing them in the correct direction is vitally important.  Installing them with reversed polarity will lead to failure, sometimes spectacular failure, such as smoke and exploding caps, blown transistors, transformers and all sorts of mayhem.  The working voltage should be as close to the voltage applied to the cap, but never less than the voltage applied to the cap.  For example, for the main filter cap, the output of the power supply is 43 Volts, therefore the 50WV 1,000 uF cap is appropriate.

For C6 and C9, the 100uF 10V caps are likely 10 WVDC.  Look for a "-" sign on the cap (It is usually the can).  Seeing + and - signs on the cap indicates that it is a polarized cap as most electrolytics are.

The main exception to this is in the speaker system.  in a multi-speaker system, the large speakers are called "Woofers" and reproduce the lower frequencies.  The small speakers are called "Tweeters" and reproduce the high frequencies.  to direct low frequencies to the woofers and high frequencies to the tweeters, crossover components such as chokes (inductors) and capacitors are used.  The "Crossover" caps are generally "non-polarized".  Here, the capacity is important, as the capacity dictates the "crossover" frequency.  For example, C8 and C11 are across the 12" speaker, the "Woofer" (low frequency speaker), "shunting" or filtering out high frequency from the woofer.    This cap must be 50 uF 25V NP.  If this cap is not available, then one can replace this cap with 2 100uF caps placed in series with the 2 + terminals connected to the speaker and the 2 - terminals connected together to get this 50 uF NP cap.  Interestingly enough, the alternate speakers shown in the diagram have polarized caps across the woofer.  Observe the polarity if replacing the 50 uF NP cap with a 100uF polarized cap.

The 2uF cap in series with the "tweeter" (high frequency speaker) blocks low frequencies from reaching the tweeter, passing only high frequencies.  Again, here, the value of the capacitor determines the "crossover frequency".  This capacitor should be a non-polarized electrolytic or can be a 2uF non-electrolytic cap.

Hope this helps.

[Jeffcon]

I just want to thank everyone that helped me learn so much and semi successfully get this console player working. It sounds better when I am just playing the radio but when I play albums, it sounds pretty crappy still. Seems I’m going to need to find a new needle cartridge if that’s even an option. Bottom line is I learned a lot and I am no longer completely mesmerized by circuit board work so I will call this a win! If anyone could point me toward a way to make my record player sound better I would appreciate that too. Thanks a bunch

[RodB]

We all use thevoiceofmusic.com for cartridges, needles and changer parts.

[MrFixr55]

Hi Jeffcon,
Congrats on your success.

You state that the phono does not sound well. Are you having distortion, "wow and flutter" (the pitch of the music changing) or other issues?

First, test the "phono" input by connecting a CD player, MP3 player or other device to the phono input of this set. If the sound is still poor (and you are not overdriving the Phono input), then troubleshoot the phono circuit. However, if this set uses a crystal or ceramic cartridge, it is likely that there is no amplifier stage, only an RC network to provide phono "equalization". Consult your schematic. Both poor needles and poor cartridges can cause distortion.

IMHO, if the cartridge is bad, consider replacing the cartridge with a magnetic cartridge. A preamplifier will be needed but there are rather compact Magnetic Phono preamps with no controls needed available for reasonable prices. The only issue will be in finding a cartridge that will physically fit your tone arm. There is a rather common screw mount dimension for magnetic cartridge but there were many processes for mounting crystal and ceramic cartridges. You will have to get clever without butchering it.