Hi Guys,
I picked up a Montgomery Ward Airline “Enchanter” U-15 from the 1920s with some issues. The second tuning capacitor is stuck and has resisted numerous efforts to have the shaft move in the brass collar. If necessary I think I can block the stator and have the collar move inside the metal chassis face. Thoughts?
Also both audio transformers are open. Any idea what to use for replacements and where to get them? I’ve counted on AES for supplies in the past but haven’t been able to access the new address after they reorganized.
The model I have is the one with a self contained horn speaker, which works. As often happens with me the look of a radio got me to acquire it. Only later do I find out how much work is involved in getting it to work. The only schematic I’ve found is hand drawn but appears to be well done. Any suggestions are welcome! Thanks. - Rob
Rob;
Service information on many radios of the 1920s is very spotty compared to 1930s sets. Are these tuning condensers driven directly via a safe style knob, or is there some sort of gear reduction? If there is pot metal that could be responsible for a shaft being stuck, though you do mention a brass collar or bushing. The old mechanics trick I heard of was to use a mix of ATF and acetone, which apparently works better then just about an penetrating oil out there. Has it been removed from the chassis yet?
Regards
Arran
Arran, It’s off the chassis currently. So far I’ve tried penetrating oil, heat and tapping the end of the shaft. The thing just sits there and mocks me! I’m in no hurry so I’m game for trying anything. Thanks for your suggestion. I’ll give it a shot.
I have ordered two interstage transformers for my AK10 from AES (now Amplified parts) with no issue whatsoever, the same usual way I have always done. They are $16.95.
I admit that this is a little scary, but my trick is that when all else fails, cut a groove longitudinally in the bushing or outer shaft, then heat and spray. Works every time.
Because Airline was a nameplate from the Montgomery Wards mail order store and Montgomery wards was not the manufacturer, Wards contracted out to several manufacturers, large and small to build their products.
However, one thing that makes this easy is that almost all sets not sold by RCA (and many that were sold by RCA) were TRF sets until about 1930, as RCA heavily controlled the Armstrong Superheterodyne patents. The TRF circuits were fairly standard. The main differences were whether the detector was a grid leak or biased, whether regenerative feedback (an RCA patent) was used, whether "reflexing" was used (where a stage serves as both an RF amp and an AF amp; see the schematic for the FADA 160), whether Neutrodyne circuitry (a Hazeltine patent) was used, whether triodes or "Screen Grid tubes (Tetrodes) were used, whether the output is a triode or pentode, single end or push pull and, of course, battery or AC.
Oh, OK, there is a lot of differences out there. However, comparing your set to various schematics, you can find one that works.
I have used the P-T156 from AES (now called Amplified Parts). They work, but I think that the actual resistance is too low and they distort IMHO. the ratios are the dame as the originals but the DC resistance is much lower on the new ones which may be an issue. Link below: https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/...tage-10-ma
Some people are happy with the ones available from Antique Radios LLC (The ARBE III vendor) used to sell audio interstage transformers that some believe were superior but they have changed hands and when I was on their website, they have changed hands and when clicking to links on their site parts or to anything not having to do with ARBE III, I get a "Not found" message. However, of the ARF website, a poster confirms that the turns ratio and primary, secondary DC resistances are very similar between the two.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Rob;
Not having seen one of these before is the frame of the tuning condenser, or the shaft, steel, brass, or pot metal? Just a thought, you might try soaking it in kerosene, or some other solvent, it that doesn't woke you could cook it in hot oil? But if you have acetone, and ATF, try that first on the bushings, and the rear bearing. The set reminds me of a Freshman, but it does not have the spider web coils on the backs of the tuning condensers, still it's a nice looking three dialer. My guess is that it was manufactured by one of the Chicago independents, either that or one of the many of what we would call "startups", that produced one or two models, and then folded a year or two later. In the 1930s and 40s a lot of Airline sets were made by Wells Gardner, and Belmont.
Regards
Arran
Thanks for the excellent feedback guys. I’ll give the tuner one more shot to try and loosen it up.
I used Hammond 125 series transformers when restoring my AK Radiodyne TRF radio. Any suggestions for another transformer to consider would be appreciated. - Rob
Close……but no cigar. I’ve replaced the audio transformers and have sound but no signal. Checked tubes, cleaned pins, disconnected variable capacitors and checked for shorts, found and fixed loose wires, checked from antenna to “volume control” and have continuity. Some suggestions as to what to poke around with are welcome.
It’s a good looking radio even though the lettering is almost gone. Fortunately my wife is graphic designer/ commercial artist. If we can get the old gal working she can restore the artwork on the front panel. Thoughts? - Rob
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
