Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 42-355
#16

    I'm assuming there should be some kind of cover on the back of this radio? The power cord is toast as well.
#17

Mike, I will take a wild stab at this but I don't believe that radio had a back on it. No need to keep prying fingers away, this is an A/C (transformer powered) radio. No real danger of shock and better ventilation for heat removal.
Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#18

OK I understand. There is a white wire at the bottom that is just cut and the end of it is in the middle of the bottom of the radio. Is this normal? I can't find the other end that might have been attached. Looks like a shortwave type antenna to me. Is this radio worth trying to save or should it go for parts?
Mike
#19

Mike, I think I see the wire your talking about. Is there not also a black wire ending there? I believe this was an add on type of dipole antenna stapled around the back of the radio for FM reception. Due to the age of your radio I will guess again that this is the old FM frequency which was changed to the new FM frequency after the war. Essentially the FM band on this radio is useless. IMHO it would not hurt to remove those wires stapled around the back. Others may add in here as if it was factory, you may want to leave them for originality.
As for saving the radio, absolutely! Certainly doesn't look like a parts radio to me. Put out a picture of the cabinet front/sides well we have the top. Chassis looks nice and clean to me.

Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#20

Once again sir....you are correct. There is a black wire cut also. They both run around the edge of the cabinet and go into the tall metal encased tube? on the left side. Being cut they aren't working ...but should I just remove the staples and take the black & white wires off the tall metal thing?
#21

Jerry is correct on both counts - in that your 42-355 never had a back, and that the "mystery" wire is part of the FM dipole. Icon_thumbup

I would not remove the white or black wires, but leave them in place. Notice how the two wires terminate in a plug which plugs into the back of the chassis?

There are ways to make that old 42-50 mc FM band useful:

http://www.somerset.net/arm/fm_only.html

I should add that I have never tried any of those converters, but I'll have to do so sometime.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#22

Mike, Ron gave a nice link for converting the FM up to the new band. Something to think about in the future. Those two wires are cut to a length to match the FM frequency. They were made that way. Nothing to worry about. On to the chassis and cabinet restoration!

Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#23

Sounds good. There is a local guy here that has replaced the caps on my other radios. I will see if he wants to go through the chassis and get it working. Wondering if I should just remove the chassis and bring the guys over to him while I finish restoring the cabinet. I will just leave the black & white wires in place. Will it pick up short wave without them?
#24

Mike, sooner or later your going to want to get your feet wet and start doing the electrical part. With all the help here, it is pretty easy. At any rate, leave the black and white wires attached to the cabinet. Those are only for FM and will unplug from the back of the radio. In order for your friend to properly check out the AM and SW bands, he will need the antenna that goes around the inside back of the radio. That loop antenna is matched to the radio.
Regards, Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#25

Man, I know nothing about radios. I plant wheat and raise cattle. I can follow instructions....but the technology of the old radios is Greek to me. I used to listen to Eddie Arnold sing his 'Cattle Song'.....in the early mornings before I went to school. That was on an old zenith big dial radio.

I will pull the chassis our of the cabinet and see if it scares me.
#26

Well Mike, I couldn't do what you do either! Cows scare me a little, wheat is for bread. But I knew about as much about radios as I did about cows. The stuff is pretty simple if you can run a soldering iron and read a schematic (think of it as a road map), just different cities as you move along it. Quite satisfying when you do one. Bet you wish you had that old Zenith big dial radio.

Jerry

A friend in need is a pest!  Bill Slee ca 1970.
#27

OK The white & black wires seem to be hard wired into a square metal container on the left side of the chassis. I won't be able to remove the chassis because they go into this metal container. The solid wire antenna is readily exposed so you can see where those are tapped to the chassis. What do I do about the hard wired wires? I would like to get the chassis out so as to start on the cabinet restoration. I can shoot more pics if helpful.

Mike
#28

No, the black and white wires are soldered into a (very) flat plug which plugs into the chassis. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, carefully and slowly ease the plug out of the chassis. Don't rush or you may break the plug!

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#29

   
Ok. I see where the solid rod antenna disconnects from the chassis with a screwdriver. How do I disconnect the white and black wired antenna from the chassis?
#30

Hello? I just told you how! Read my post just above your last one (#28 ).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
Hello musar, First all welcome to the forum and yes that is true that steve stopped making trim . Sincerely Richar...radiorich — 12:13 AM
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
I have recently come into possession of a Model 70.  The trim around the base needs to be replaced.  If this were years ...musar — 12:07 AM
philcorepairbench.com - shadow-meter
Anyone know of a way to recover these files from the repair bench? Thanks. fenbach — 11:16 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
That's true. Of course If I were to get a vtvm I'd probably have to sink money in to it to get it working right. Probabl...Stormlord5500 — 08:44 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
A DMM is good enough. One rarely has to measure indictance, but if you do, short of getting a serious LCR meter (I hav...morzh — 07:35 PM
Testing a speaker and output transformer Trutone A2-G
You guy's are right on. I found a broken wire on the speaker plug that I replaced and all is well now. Have better volu...murf — 03:43 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I need to get a vtvm. I think that little component tester is just more accurate. Plus it shows the inductance which is ...Stormlord5500 — 03:07 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I use a pair of Mastercraft brand DMMs from Canadian Tire, from what I read most of those DMMs use the same main chip re...Arran — 02:36 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Thank you sir. Yes I feel good and also relieved because this one's been weighing on me a bit.Stormlord5500 — 11:18 AM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
It feels good don't it? Good luck on the rest.Paul Philco322 — 11:06 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2369 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 2368 Guest(s)
Avatar

>