Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer
#1

I am re-repairing my 6050 and someone at one time just threw a 50 uf Ecap under the chassis to replace the 40 20 that was there.

I had started by just replacing the 50 with a new 50 but was still getting a loud unchanging buzzing from the speaker so I ditched that idea.

I have removed the Ecap and have put in the new 47 and 22 Ecaps to their marked terminals but want to make sure I am getting the grounding right.

I have both negatives twisted and going to one of the outer twist lock terminals of the can. the can says negative is the can so is this correct?

Lastly, Where they put in the replacement cap is now not needed so I just clip it out and don't need to do anything else right?

Here are some pics:


Attached Files Image(s)
               

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#2

Looks like that 50uf is in backwards. Make sure you didn't make that same mistake in the restuff.
#3

I thought that too but Thats how the other one was in. I'm guessing thats why it was making all that buzzing but I turned it around and it still has the loud buzzing. Hoping the re-stuff will fix it. All wires and caps were replaced so I don't know what else it could be.
I'm not good with trouble shooting as can be seen...

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#4

If it is any help, an electolytic stuffed in backwrds is likely to blow open or short depending on the fusisters put in place. Best replace everything in voltage divider network and get a handle on current draw with a good old fashioned DC ammeter to find the gremlin. Work from the output stage "backwards" to the antenna. Best of luck.
#5

Can you look at the chassis and tell us which version you have?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...017327.pdf

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Electrolytic restuffing/internals
I don’t have a vise so I had to hold it in my hand. Not optimal but covered up by the hvac tape in the end. I have a few...bridkarl — 11:52 PM
Electrolytic restuffing/internals
Bridkarl A question. For a hacksaw the cut looks a little...jagged. Why?morzh — 11:45 PM
The list of my radio & TV collection!
As usual, an interesting post from you, Peter. This seems to be similar to the RCA 3-BX-671 and the Zenith Transoceanic...MrFixr55 — 11:41 PM
The list of my radio & TV collection!
Hello Peter, Thank you for sharing your new video and looks like your weather is nice their too. it was like 25 Cel...radiorich — 11:05 PM
Electrolytic restuffing/internals
hello bridkarl, I will post some better photos ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 10:14 PM
Electrolytic restuffing/internals
I just taped the two pieces of the cap together, but I can see your method is better. I just held the lead in with solde...bridkarl — 08:18 PM
Electrolytic restuffing/internals
hello bridkarl, Well done ! Here is a Photo of the base of Philco capacitor that I cut open you can see how I glued th...radiorich — 08:14 PM
philco predicta
Hi CGL18, Here is a link for the schematic from the Early television Foundation: WARNING!! One side of the Chassis i...MrFixr55 — 08:09 PM
The list of my radio & TV collection!
Peter; I like Canadian General Electric sets, whilst the model numbers are often the same as their U.S General Electr...Arran — 05:44 PM
Electrolytic restuffing/internals
Did as suggested. Cut can with hacksaw, removed internals, attached new 8mf cap - with ample use of cardboard and elec...bridkarl — 03:36 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>