[K7Sparky]

The 41-280 cabinet I am working on had what seems to be a common power switch fix.

Bore a hole in the side of the cabinet and add a toggle switch.

The bush button switch has been temporarily fixed and will get the replacement written up on this Phorum. Will probably use the 4-40 screws referred to as if I was going to do it again.

Now to the hole left in the side of the case.

After a lot of thinking, the path being considered is using a gasket punch on some veneer, sticking the punching on the end of a dowel, sand to fit and gluing in place. May or not need a dab of filler depending on how good a job I manage fitting the punching.

Case has had the GoJo cleaning, but not the Old English scratch remover yet.

Anyone done a hole repair "Wow I got it right" or "I would never do that again"

[Jamie]

I filled in one toggle switch hole on the side of a Philco tombstone model. I used some kind of plastic wood filler that dries as hard as a rock. It was advertised as being stonger than real wood, and I believe it. The problem with it, is that it doesn't take toner like real wood. This particular radio needed the sides and top refinished with extra dark walnut, almost an ebony look, so I was able to hide it well.

If I needed to patch a hole on a cabinet with pretty veneer, I'd probably try to go the same route you are thinking about. The only thing I'd do different, is that I wouldn't punch out a perfect hole for the replacement veneer. It will leave a circular outline that will be impossible to hide. I'd probably remove some veneer around the hole on the cabinet, just to give the edges a bit of raggedness, then try to cover it with a custom cut piece of scrap veneer. Ragged edges, if matched up properly are much easier to hide than an edge that's perpendicular to the original grain.

[skyscraper]

If you do go with plastic wood, you can work stain into it beforehand to match the color. It doesn't take it well dried.

[jerryhawthorne]

Sparky, I like your idea better than the wood putty. Really hard to get color proper.
Jerry

[K7Sparky]

"I filled in one toggle switch hole on the side of a Philco tombstone model. I used some kind of plastic wood filler that dries as hard as a rock. It was advertised as being stonger than real wood, and I believe it. The problem with it, is that it doesn't take toner like real wood. This particular radio needed the sides and top refinished with extra dark walnut, almost an ebony look, so I was able to hide it well."

PuhPow - Sounds like you used Durhams Rock Hard Putty. Swells a bit as it dries and stays put great. As you said and as the can says stain the powder. Will not take stain. Used a bunch to fill screw holes on a cabin sole. Nice cream color and takes drilling to remove, but no way to stain.
I like the idea of doing a jagidy form patch on top of the dowel to help hide the patch.

Waiting for more ideas. I have trouble waiting to do repairs and have the paid the price too many times.

[Eliot Ness]

I don't care for Plactic Wood because it dries so hard and is then difficult to work with. I prefer Elmer's Wood Putty, it is easier to work with and takes stain a little better than the other.

With either the circular wood patch or a putty fill I would finish up with artists paints. You can match the veneer color pretty well and then use a fine brush to match up the grain pattern. I did this to a beautiful A.K. 82 cabinet that had a row of holes drilled along the side near the bottom molding for some odd reason

That project turned out a lot better than I thought it would and blended in very well. You are fortunate that the hole is on the side, it won't be nearly as visible as if it were on the front.