Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Was working, now trying to burn up!
#31

Ben, can you post a picture of the bottom of the chassis? There seems to be some confusion as to whether the radio has been recapped or not. Showing a picture of the components under the chassis will settle the question.

In the photos you have already posted, the caps visible have been all modern orange drop style replacements, so this confirms that at least some have the caps have been already changed.
#32

Oh, I'm sorry. I thought I did post the underside shot in this thread. I did in my introductory one but not here too like I thought I did.

Here it is:
[Image: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/i...ny1168.jpg]
#33

With due respect.. Perfunctory means done as part of a routine or duty.
#34

ben I only see 2 lytic`s should be 8-12-16 3 of them
#35

Quote:ben I only see 2 lytic`s should be 8-12-16 3 of them

I am a complete noob... I don't know what you are talking about.

EDIT: You need to go easy on the slang. Icon_lol I managed to figured out you meant "Electrolytic capacitor". There *ARE* three... unless I am sorely confused. There is a large yellow one, a grey one next to the yellow one and a smaller black and grey one to the upper left in the pic between two tubes base connectors.
#36

ben
see 2 blue caps with arrows they are electrolytic`s should be 3 of them according to schematic an 8mfd,12mfd,16mfd part 21
#37

The large yellow capacitor is this: Sprague TVA1706

It's installed in such a way that it's writing is facing the chassis body. However, I can just barely make it out. So yes, it has 3 capacitors.

They are 10, 12 and 22. They are higher than spec'd but as I understand things, that's generally ok. (Edit: or not...?) Having too small would be a problem.
#38

Ben,

Two possible issues:
1) We can't see for sure from the picture, but that yellow cap should have been disconnected if new ones were installed. Also, if only two of the three caps were replaced and one of the originals was kept (which appears to be the case), that one original section within the yellow multi-section cap is highly suspect and should be replaced.

2) Do you have any idea how long ago those 'new' electrolytics were installed? If you don't know the answer to that question with certainty, then you really should replace the 'new' ones as well. If an electrolytic has been sitting, unpowered for 10, or 20 years, or possibly even longer, then they are quite likely bad as well. I don't say this to cause you unneeded work or expense, it is just the reality of electrolytic caps.

Good luck.
Jon
#39

The yellow cap is part of the restoration someone did. It's not a paper cap. They used 3 modern caps to take the place of the original metal casing multisection electrolytic cap. The three that were already pointed out.

I think you are seriously confused about what you are seeing in the photo. Why on earth are you referring to a Sprague TVA1706 as a "multisection" capacitor? It's not. I already provided a link to the technical information about it. You are also acting like it's an original, 73 year old capacitor.

Maybe some better photos will help clarify things for you. Please referred to attached photos.


On a separate note -- Over in my thread about the record player restoration thread, I discovered that the bakelite block cap has NOT been restored. It contains two small 0.01uF capacitors encased in tar. I will be digging out the old ones and putting in new ones.


Attached Files Image(s)
           
#40

Here's a nice "how to" on those bakelite blocks if you are interested.
#41

klondike98 - Thanks for the link. I will be using a hair dryer instead of a heat gun. Icon_lol
#42

That's what I use and it works fine.




Users browsing this thread:
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Hello Martin, Welcome aboard our little community what great Model 38-7 Sincerely Richardradiorich — 12:30 AM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Welcome to the Phorum Martin. I count about 9 paper caps, the 3 electrolytic caps and 2-Y2 safety caps to replace th...RodB — 09:44 PM
Part numbers to model cross
Jim, We have this index put together by Dale Cook but I don't think that is quite what you are looking for. The Parts...klondike98 — 09:37 PM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Yep the dim bulb test is OK but I'd definitely replace all those electrolytics before I did it. Since those #47 conden...klondike98 — 09:18 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
The resistor is a 2.2 Meg, it was the last one I hadn't replaced. The broadcast is coming in after replacing it.osanders0311 — 09:09 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
What does the resistor measure? I think it should be 3.3 Meg. If the oscillator coil has continuity and the resistanc...RodB — 09:03 PM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Good idea to check the coils... then I'll get hold of an incadescent light bulb and see what happens when the unit is sw...Musaeum — 08:49 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
I have that same set, ain't too much shortwave I like anyway.....it is a good AM DX set. PaulPaul Philco322 — 08:32 PM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Welcome to the Phorum, Martin! Open a new thread in Philco Electronic Restoration when you begin working on your 38-7. ...GarySP — 08:28 PM
Philco Model 38-7: what caps & resistors do fail typically?
Welcome to the Phorum! :wave: Here's the schematic for that radio from our digital library: Something to do bef...klondike98 — 08:05 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>