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lmao I guess
Great job mike
Should had given up long ago after all it's kirks
Sam
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John KK4ZLF
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"illegitimis non carborundum"
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Shut up Mike,
I didnt mean "I guess" to all the work. I was just referring to the last statement I did not understand. so there!
How is this....
Oh Mike, you are so awesome! I love your work!!!!! You did such an amazing job and I am soooooo proud of you!!!!!!!!!
YAY MIKE!!!!!!!!! Everyone clap!!!!!! YAY YAY!!!!!
Better??
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...a little.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Arran,
I think the first band is 2-5.5Mhz (or so) so it is a SW, at least in part. It probably covers Police and low part of SW.
The one where there is plenty of stations is the one with 5 to 17MHz or so (do not remember exact numbers).
I would take the pot apart but the radio is a bit flimsy - do not want to shake it more than necessary, the coils are, well, look really tender.
The interesting part is, it was changed before, as the shaft is that soft aluminum with longitudinal grooves, you know, the one that you cut to size (and it has been cut). I put some lithium grease at the bushing where the shaft comes out....maybe should use oil but do not have any. Well, it rotates.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Great save, Mike!
--
Ron Ramirez
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(03-04-2015, 01:57 PM)morzh Wrote: Arran,
I think the first band is 2-5.5Mhz (or so) so it is a SW, at least in part. It probably covers Police and low part of SW.
The one where there is plenty of stations is the one with 5 to 17MHz or so (do not remember exact numbers).
I would take the pot apart but the radio is a bit flimsy - do not want to shake it more than necessary, the coils are, well, look really tender.
The interesting part is, it was changed before, as the shaft is that soft aluminum with longitudinal grooves, you know, the one that you cut to size (and it has been cut). I put some lithium grease at the bushing where the shaft comes out....maybe should use oil but do not have any. Well, it rotates.
Mike;
I know that type of pot, and when I run across one I usaully make some effort to locate a replacement with a proper shaft made out of brass. I don't really care for them, they look like they were trying to come up with one design to fit everything, well they do, sort of, they fit everything poorly rather then fitting one or two types of knob well. Maybe a replacement will come up from a parts chassis at some point, unless it's a weird electrical value, the controls don't look like they have shafts of a typical length of maybe 1-1/2 inches. I became pretty good at dismantling and cleaning control pots when I used to fix up a lot of farm battery sets, between the petrified grease and the dirt build up inside there usually wasn't much alternative, the saving grace is that the radios they were in usually had a fraction of the hours and usage of lets say an AA5.
Regards
Arran
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Well, this one works fine, so considering the radio, there is no compelling reason to replace it, and the value is right on the money, 500K as it says on the sch.
The shaft rotates fairly easy in one direction (to the low position and turn-off) and a bit harder in the opposite direction, which is weird.
Today saw two more padders, so the second IF is also adjustable (thought it was not), will adjust in the evening, see if it gives it any more edge.
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1. Peaked the second IF. Total peaking makes it oscillate so have to get a bit off-peak, and ended up on both IFs pretty much where they were before.
2. Opened the volume pot. It is the same type as was in my Philco 111, where the rotor has a cam that presses aganst a circular metal band inside the circular resistive element. Trouble with those, the cam rubs against the band and either way it is a forward pushing action so it enounters lots of friction. I added some lithium grease and it became much better. Plus some deoxit for the resistor itself.
It has to be not used much, the value did not go away much at all.
3. The SW 5.5-17Mhz band is accurate enough, and so is BC band. Conidering the pointer has to be screwed tight and the dial itself can be rotated inside the frame.
The Police band (2-5Mhz) is less acurate. I guess this is the coil on the blue bobbin I had to fully recreate. Then again, who needs that one. It is about 0.1Mhz off on some part of the scale, much better towards lower end and 0.2MHz off at higher end. Screw it. There are no stations there anyway (yesterday I got one...so do I get on my other radios with the Police band).
Not a bad guess though.....
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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fantastic Mike!
You can put her to bed now and thats it. I dont think I gave you any more chassis right?
Just those 2 easy fixes
Kirk
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Yep. Those two. I wanted them done before the move, as in the cold basement Gosh knows when I arrange a workshop there, possibly not before April.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Speaking of....
Do you have the missing pieces of tuning mechanism? Was there a pulley on that shaft or the cord is wraped around the bare shaft? You'll have to figure that one, I am rotating the tuning cap's puley manually.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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woohoo road trip soon mike
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