11-08-2016, 06:18 AM
Joe;
I also looked in Beitmans, in one of the Sams dial stringing guides that I have (didn't look in the other yet but the one I looked in supposedly covered sets made from 1938-47) and also in the Canadian Sparton service folders and manuals I have, no diagram for this model. However it looks like an aeroplane style dial and pointer so the stringing should be simple, other then figuring out the length, if you already have three of the Sams dial stringing manuals I would have a look at the dial layouts most similar to the Sparton, like a Philco 38-15 for example.
Typically what it will have is a drum behind the dial plate, the drum will have a groove around the perimeter with a notch or a hole with a bushing in it. First the dial cord has two ends with a loop at either end, one loop will attach to a tension spring, the end of the spring will slip over a hook on the inside of the drum (or sometimes there will be a series of holes and a hook on one end of the spring), the loop on the other end will slip directly over a hook on the inside of the drum. Sometimes you will have to remove the dial pointer and the dial plate to get at the inside of the drum, but even if you don't it makes it much easier to restring the dial cord if you do. Next there is usually a preferred position in which to have the tuning cap, either fully open or fully meshed, whilst working on the dial cord, since you will be pulling and tugging at it to get everything where it needs to go.
I'm not sure how to explain the next part but here is how the dial cord works, the drum takes up cord in one direction, and supplies it in the other, while a portion of the cord is wrapped around the tuning control shaft about 2-1/2 times, it's basically a large loop. So if lets say the tuning cap rotates clockwise with the dial the cord the cord will leave the left side of the drum and be taken up on the right side, when it rotates counter clockwise the cord will leave the right side of the drum and be taken up on the left side. On some of these dials, because of where the notch is on the drum, you will need to wrap an extra turn of cord around the drum or the tuning cap won't open all the way. I would get a roll of braided fly backing fish line (at least 25 pound test) from a sporting goods store, and start experimenting with making loops, seeing how far it will stretch, etc., the Sams books will give you an idea of where to start.
Regards
Arran
I also looked in Beitmans, in one of the Sams dial stringing guides that I have (didn't look in the other yet but the one I looked in supposedly covered sets made from 1938-47) and also in the Canadian Sparton service folders and manuals I have, no diagram for this model. However it looks like an aeroplane style dial and pointer so the stringing should be simple, other then figuring out the length, if you already have three of the Sams dial stringing manuals I would have a look at the dial layouts most similar to the Sparton, like a Philco 38-15 for example.
Typically what it will have is a drum behind the dial plate, the drum will have a groove around the perimeter with a notch or a hole with a bushing in it. First the dial cord has two ends with a loop at either end, one loop will attach to a tension spring, the end of the spring will slip over a hook on the inside of the drum (or sometimes there will be a series of holes and a hook on one end of the spring), the loop on the other end will slip directly over a hook on the inside of the drum. Sometimes you will have to remove the dial pointer and the dial plate to get at the inside of the drum, but even if you don't it makes it much easier to restring the dial cord if you do. Next there is usually a preferred position in which to have the tuning cap, either fully open or fully meshed, whilst working on the dial cord, since you will be pulling and tugging at it to get everything where it needs to go.
I'm not sure how to explain the next part but here is how the dial cord works, the drum takes up cord in one direction, and supplies it in the other, while a portion of the cord is wrapped around the tuning control shaft about 2-1/2 times, it's basically a large loop. So if lets say the tuning cap rotates clockwise with the dial the cord the cord will leave the left side of the drum and be taken up on the right side, when it rotates counter clockwise the cord will leave the right side of the drum and be taken up on the left side. On some of these dials, because of where the notch is on the drum, you will need to wrap an extra turn of cord around the drum or the tuning cap won't open all the way. I would get a roll of braided fly backing fish line (at least 25 pound test) from a sporting goods store, and start experimenting with making loops, seeing how far it will stretch, etc., the Sams books will give you an idea of where to start.
Regards
Arran
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