03-08-2010, 06:38 PM
Over the weekend I used Raleigh's method of replacing one of these switches in a 41-226 "Sled."
The Lowe's switch (which is what I used this time) looks and works just like the original. However, the mounting holes are slightly closer together than are the originals, which can cause a problem. Careful widening of the mounting holes with a drill solved that problem.
The real issue came up when the original actuator and spring came out of the assembly. Some searching and cussing followed. I finally found the actuator and spring. Some more cussing followed, after which I finally succeeded in getting the tab of the actuator back into the slot. I then mounted the new switch, using the new wafer insulator in place of the old one.
Oh, and I did have to file the rounded end of the switch flat in order to accommodate the plunger on the "off-on" pushbutton. This was quickly accomplished with my handy-dandy Dremel tool.
I used epoxy to hold the switch in place. Next time I replace one of these, I think I will see if I can acquire some sheet metal screws that are small in diameter yet long enough to replace the rivets, to fasten the switch more securely.
I'll be chronicling this restoration on my website in the near future, as time allows.
EDIT: I had to use the Lowe's switch because there was not enough room in the 41-226 for the Radio Shack switch.
The Lowe's switch (which is what I used this time) looks and works just like the original. However, the mounting holes are slightly closer together than are the originals, which can cause a problem. Careful widening of the mounting holes with a drill solved that problem.
The real issue came up when the original actuator and spring came out of the assembly. Some searching and cussing followed. I finally found the actuator and spring. Some more cussing followed, after which I finally succeeded in getting the tab of the actuator back into the slot. I then mounted the new switch, using the new wafer insulator in place of the old one.
Oh, and I did have to file the rounded end of the switch flat in order to accommodate the plunger on the "off-on" pushbutton. This was quickly accomplished with my handy-dandy Dremel tool.
I used epoxy to hold the switch in place. Next time I replace one of these, I think I will see if I can acquire some sheet metal screws that are small in diameter yet long enough to replace the rivets, to fasten the switch more securely.
I'll be chronicling this restoration on my website in the near future, as time allows.
EDIT: I had to use the Lowe's switch because there was not enough room in the 41-226 for the Radio Shack switch.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
