10-30-2017, 07:13 AM
Morzh and Ron;
Yes, I have had to deal with the melting insulation for decades of repair/restoration work and I understand the issue. I use a Weller 100W soldering gun for a lot of work. I also have a Weller 240-325 watt gun to use on electrolytic can twist tabs. As long as the length of time the wires and parts are exposed to the heat is kept short, the amount of damage is minimized. I also have an adjustable soldering iron so that I can control the temperature. It is rated at 40W max and serves well for some situations. I have two different hemostats or siezers that I can use to clamp onto the leads of components and wires that are sensitive to heat exposure. Those carry away the heat and minimize the damage. So does solder wick when taking apart components. I have some clear heat shrink tubing that I sometimes slide over wires that I want to re-use and have some damage to the insulation. We all have run into situations where wires to/from items such as band switches and RF compartments are so congested that it is easier to slide some heat shrink tubing over them and retain the original wires rather than tearing down a unit to extreme levels just to replace a wire or other component.
The 40-201 I have had considerable rubber insulated wires in it that had to be replaced. The IF transformers in particular were just in pitiful shape. I try to use the same color of wires when I replace the existing wires, but cannot always do so. Sometimes I just do not have the right color of wire available to use. I have a couple of boxes crammed with old wiring removed from donor chassis over the years that I can sometimes get the right color and type of wire from. It pays to be a pack-rat.
Joe
Yes, I have had to deal with the melting insulation for decades of repair/restoration work and I understand the issue. I use a Weller 100W soldering gun for a lot of work. I also have a Weller 240-325 watt gun to use on electrolytic can twist tabs. As long as the length of time the wires and parts are exposed to the heat is kept short, the amount of damage is minimized. I also have an adjustable soldering iron so that I can control the temperature. It is rated at 40W max and serves well for some situations. I have two different hemostats or siezers that I can use to clamp onto the leads of components and wires that are sensitive to heat exposure. Those carry away the heat and minimize the damage. So does solder wick when taking apart components. I have some clear heat shrink tubing that I sometimes slide over wires that I want to re-use and have some damage to the insulation. We all have run into situations where wires to/from items such as band switches and RF compartments are so congested that it is easier to slide some heat shrink tubing over them and retain the original wires rather than tearing down a unit to extreme levels just to replace a wire or other component.
The 40-201 I have had considerable rubber insulated wires in it that had to be replaced. The IF transformers in particular were just in pitiful shape. I try to use the same color of wires when I replace the existing wires, but cannot always do so. Sometimes I just do not have the right color of wire available to use. I have a couple of boxes crammed with old wiring removed from donor chassis over the years that I can sometimes get the right color and type of wire from. It pays to be a pack-rat.
Joe
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
