11-11-2010, 07:44 AM
If you're buying from Just Radios, here's what you should do (in my opinion):
1. Looking over the options at Just Radios, I would order metalized polyester film to replace every paper cap in the set, and use 630V rated caps to replace the 200, 400 and 600 volt caps. These are the yellow, axial lead caps. I see the smaller values (smaller than 0.01 uF) are metalized polypropylene film, so use those for any caps you need smaller than 0.01 uF.
Why one type over another? Some people prefer the Orange Dips (replacement for the old Sprague "Orange Drops") as the insulation is hard and not as easy to destroy with an errant soldering iron/gun. Touch a hot soldering iron or gun to the side of a yellow film cap, and you've instantly destroyed it.
2. Correct, 630V for all paper caps and 450V for the electrolytics. Yes, you will get conflicting advice on the two 1000V caps that go from the audio tube plates to ground. While 1000V caps were used to compensate for potential audio spikes, you can get by with 630V caps here. I use 630V caps on the plates of audio output tubes and have yet to blow one out. Of course, I don't crank my radios to full volume either and play them that way for hours on end...
3. If you feel you must use 1000V caps on the audio output tube plates, they do carry .0033 uF in 1600 volt Orange Dips.
4. It depends on whether you plan to restuff the old electrolytic cans or just mount the new ones under the chassis, disconnecting the old cans and leaving them in place for appearance.
Syl has posted an excellent how-to on restuffing can electrolytics here:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=1002
One more thing. I recommend you use X1/Y2 safety caps, .01 uF, to replace the two in the bakelite block (3903-DG). These are designed to fail open in case they do fail. Regular metalized film caps can be used here, but if they fail, they could fail shorted, which is not a good thing.
1. Looking over the options at Just Radios, I would order metalized polyester film to replace every paper cap in the set, and use 630V rated caps to replace the 200, 400 and 600 volt caps. These are the yellow, axial lead caps. I see the smaller values (smaller than 0.01 uF) are metalized polypropylene film, so use those for any caps you need smaller than 0.01 uF.
Why one type over another? Some people prefer the Orange Dips (replacement for the old Sprague "Orange Drops") as the insulation is hard and not as easy to destroy with an errant soldering iron/gun. Touch a hot soldering iron or gun to the side of a yellow film cap, and you've instantly destroyed it.
2. Correct, 630V for all paper caps and 450V for the electrolytics. Yes, you will get conflicting advice on the two 1000V caps that go from the audio tube plates to ground. While 1000V caps were used to compensate for potential audio spikes, you can get by with 630V caps here. I use 630V caps on the plates of audio output tubes and have yet to blow one out. Of course, I don't crank my radios to full volume either and play them that way for hours on end...
3. If you feel you must use 1000V caps on the audio output tube plates, they do carry .0033 uF in 1600 volt Orange Dips.
4. It depends on whether you plan to restuff the old electrolytic cans or just mount the new ones under the chassis, disconnecting the old cans and leaving them in place for appearance.
Syl has posted an excellent how-to on restuffing can electrolytics here:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=1002
One more thing. I recommend you use X1/Y2 safety caps, .01 uF, to replace the two in the bakelite block (3903-DG). These are designed to fail open in case they do fail. Regular metalized film caps can be used here, but if they fail, they could fail shorted, which is not a good thing.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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