05-28-2019, 10:48 PM
Perhaps an over view would help decide. Sanding carefully so not to sand through the veneer, because a scraper was used staining may show compression marks. Sanding would also bring fresh wood to the surface. Carefully sand the entire radio as any overall staining would have a difference in color.
If the chip is at an edge with molding adjacent and the remaining red also next to a molding. The missing chip can be filled with Bondo or Min Wax filler. This would be an ugly blemish. But, because of the adjacent molding during the finish process, opaque toner is used. Rather than cutting a hard edge of toned molding v.s. tinted finish the toning is feathered gradually from the molding into the panel. Thus, obscuring the red and the leveling filler patch. Keep in mind, stain the wood a dark color and using transparent toner as a clear coat will also darken the piece. Best thing about lacquer is it can be removed with thinner if it does not look right or the finish fails from fish-eye or moisture haze. The cabinet is more like a blank canvas that can have its colors shifted in layers until the desired look is achieved.
I suggest practice on pieces of scrap preferably some cheap Honduran backing board to get the feel of the techniques. Fortunately, all of the products, except the wood stain are in rattle can so a compressor and HVLP gun won't be needed.
If that cannot be done then patching the veneer. That is tougher only because of grain matching. If still not possible to match then cover the entire surface with new veneer. Patch would still be needed to fill the space but the red would be completely covered. A new veneer gives one a chance to be creative and select different woods or a matched pattern.
Certainly there are other alternatives, that is my escape...
YMMV
Chas
If the chip is at an edge with molding adjacent and the remaining red also next to a molding. The missing chip can be filled with Bondo or Min Wax filler. This would be an ugly blemish. But, because of the adjacent molding during the finish process, opaque toner is used. Rather than cutting a hard edge of toned molding v.s. tinted finish the toning is feathered gradually from the molding into the panel. Thus, obscuring the red and the leveling filler patch. Keep in mind, stain the wood a dark color and using transparent toner as a clear coat will also darken the piece. Best thing about lacquer is it can be removed with thinner if it does not look right or the finish fails from fish-eye or moisture haze. The cabinet is more like a blank canvas that can have its colors shifted in layers until the desired look is achieved.
I suggest practice on pieces of scrap preferably some cheap Honduran backing board to get the feel of the techniques. Fortunately, all of the products, except the wood stain are in rattle can so a compressor and HVLP gun won't be needed.
If that cannot be done then patching the veneer. That is tougher only because of grain matching. If still not possible to match then cover the entire surface with new veneer. Patch would still be needed to fill the space but the red would be completely covered. A new veneer gives one a chance to be creative and select different woods or a matched pattern.
Certainly there are other alternatives, that is my escape...
YMMV
Chas
Pliny the younger
“nihil novum nihil varium nihil quod non semel spectasse sufficiat”
