08-02-2019, 09:58 AM
Ed;
On restuffing electrolytic can capacitors, I did some of these for years but my hands have been affected by arthritis and so I quit doing those and have since gone solely with Hayseed replacements. My hands thank me!
I agree that the value of these vintage tube stereo units far outweighs the few dollars saved by restuffing or trying to reform questionable OEM capacitors. I also replace all the smaller axial lead electrolytics with new ones as you have done. It can solve tricky problems before you power up a unit the first time.
One of the things that can plague any of us is solder splashes, drips or small wire clippings getting into hard to see spots that later result in more problems. I generally turn a chassis over after installing new parts and give it a couple of raps against the table to dislodge loose items and let them drop out for going into the trash. I find that I have to go over a chassis multiple times before proceeding to apply power just to make sure I haven't done something really stupid!
Getting those soldered-in can electrolytic twist-tabs loose can be difficult. I have two soldering guns, both are Weller units, an 8200 N 100-140Watt and a D-550 240-325Watt unit. In some cases I have to use both guns at the same time in order to liquify the solder enough to remove excess or wick the excess away to facilitate removal or installation of new parts.
Good going!
Joe
On restuffing electrolytic can capacitors, I did some of these for years but my hands have been affected by arthritis and so I quit doing those and have since gone solely with Hayseed replacements. My hands thank me!
I agree that the value of these vintage tube stereo units far outweighs the few dollars saved by restuffing or trying to reform questionable OEM capacitors. I also replace all the smaller axial lead electrolytics with new ones as you have done. It can solve tricky problems before you power up a unit the first time.
One of the things that can plague any of us is solder splashes, drips or small wire clippings getting into hard to see spots that later result in more problems. I generally turn a chassis over after installing new parts and give it a couple of raps against the table to dislodge loose items and let them drop out for going into the trash. I find that I have to go over a chassis multiple times before proceeding to apply power just to make sure I haven't done something really stupid!
Getting those soldered-in can electrolytic twist-tabs loose can be difficult. I have two soldering guns, both are Weller units, an 8200 N 100-140Watt and a D-550 240-325Watt unit. In some cases I have to use both guns at the same time in order to liquify the solder enough to remove excess or wick the excess away to facilitate removal or installation of new parts.
Good going!
Joe
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