[MrFixr55]

OK, I think that the IF cans that you see is the convertor, 1st IF Xformer and 1st IF Amp, based on the 47 Ohm resistor between Pin 7 and ground.  The cap seen on this socket is the Screen Grid bias cap.

The weird thing seen are the 2 devices between each leg of the power interlock and chassis ground.  I have not seen any schematic specifically labelled code 122.  I have looked at both the Philco Library and Nostalgia Air schematic (Contains both the Rider's and Breitman's data) and all 3 of these look the same.  The 2 devices between the interlock and ground certainly look like factory.

A couple of important things:

• This is a HOT chassis set not a warm chassis.  Almost all AC-DC AM-FM sets that I have run into (1 Arvin, 4 Zeniths and an RCA) are Hot chassis sets with interlocks and no metal showing, even chassis mount screws.  Like almost all AC-DC sets, the power switch is on the Chassis side, not the power input side.  Polarized plug or not, there will be a situation where the chassis is hot.  If the neutral is switched, the chassis is at neutral level with the switch closed but hot due to the low resistance of cold heaters when the switch is open.  You may want to put the switch on the hot side.
  

• There are several capacitors between various spots in the heater string and ground, On the schematics and I suspect on your set, there are 2 caps between the power input (hot side) and chassis.  One is a 100pF cap.  The other is a 0.05uF cap.  There are 2 caps because the 0.5uF cap may have a high impedance at high frequencies, necessitating the 100 pF cap. 
  

• In your set, one of the 2 caps(?) connected to the interlock is superfluous and it will be bypassed by the power switch, and there is no reason I can think of for having that device. 
  

• If you can't find the elusive Code 122 schematic, consider wiring the set it in conformance with the other schematic when you find differences that you can't resolve by inspection.  The schematics in the Philcp Library and the Nostalgia Air site were for a released version so it should be licit.
  

• I don't think that one can find a 100pF safety cap.  I would just use one with a good voltage rating.  IMHO, there is not a lot of current across a 100pF cap at 120V 60 Hz.  Do definitely use a safety cap to replace the 0.04uF cap, and possibly other heater bypass caps if they are higher than 0.005uF.
  

• If your set is documented on a label as using a 35C5, ensure that there is a resistor in the heater string.  If there is no resistor and the tube complement is a 19C8,  two 12AU6s, a 12BA5 and a 12AT7, the voltage drop across these tubes should be 67V.  Adda a 35C5 and the drop is 102V, requiring a resistor, but with a 50C5 (having the same heater current as a 35C5), the drop is 117V.
  

Hope this helps.