[MrFixr55]

EDITED 09/05/2025, 5:35PM, to add content and correct a mistake

Hi Philco4Me,

Sorry, I have been away from your thread for a while.  Sorry, this will be long.  Don't get discouraged, you will get this.

First off, for Ohms (resistance) on your DVM, OL means infinite resistance or open circuit or open switch.
A short (at least in a 120V power circuit) or a closed switch will read a reading close to 0.000 ohms.  
Do this as an exercise:

With your DMM (Digital Multi Meter) set for Ohms, note that with your test leads not touching a device or each other, the reading will be "OL".  This means that the reading is either an infinite resistance (a perfect insulator) or that there is a resistance that is higher than the limit of the meter (usually 20 Megohms). Now, touch the pins of the test leads together. You will get a reading of 0.00 Ohms.  This is a dead short.  If the reading is more than 0.00 Ohms but less than 1.0 Ohms, this is normal, but write this number down before taking measurements, and subtract this from the reading, especially if you need to accurately read the resistance of a device with low resistance, like a 10 Ohm resistor.

So, looking at your last pic, checking between the power pins, and having a reading of "OL" indicates infinite resistance.

WHEN WORKING ON THIS SET, PLEASE REMEMBER THAT POWER IS APPLIED DIRECTLY TO THE METAL CHASSIS! (You may have referred to this as a "frame".)  Please avoid touching the chassis as a dangerous shock can occur.  To be sure, close the power switch and using your ohmmeter, verify what pin on your power plug connects directly to the chassis and ensure that pin is in the larger of the 2 holes in the power outlet.  However, with the switch off, the chassis becomes hot again through the tube filament string.  this is because the power switch is on the "Neutral" side of the power, between tghe power cord and the chassis. THEREFORE, WHEN CONNECTED TO POWER, PLEASE PERFORM ALL TESTING WITH THE RADIO'S POWER SWITCH ON.  WHEN WORKING ON THE RADIO OTHER THAN MAKING MEASUREMENTS, DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD FROM THE POWER OUTLET.  DO NOT RELY ON TURNING THE RADIO'S POWER SWITCH OFF TO MAKE THE RADIO SAFE FOR CHANGING COMPONENTS, ETC.

Next step:

With the tubes removed from the set, with those 2 devices that connected directly between the power connector and chassis ground and the rectifier wires disconnected (From your last pic, it appears that you did this), measure the resistance (Meter on Ohms) between the 2 pins of the power connector.  What is the reading?  If the resistance is higher than 500-1000 Ohms, or slowly increases, then connect to dim bulb, apply power and you should see that the bulb may have shown some brightness but should dim out quickly. This would correspond with charging of the power supply filter caps.  If still a bright bulb, unplug the radio and cut the wire between the Selenium rectifier CR1 and the 22 ohm resistor (the "load" side of the rectifier).  If the bulb is off now, the short is "Downstream" of the power supply (solder splash, shorted electrolytic capacitor, capacitor installed reverse polarity, etc.).  If the bulb is still bright, cut the other wire to the rectifier.  If the bulb is now out, the rectifier is shorted to chassis ground. Note the outcome of these tests and post in this thread.  I recommend that you replace the rectifier with a 1N4007  these are available from any electronics supplier, eBay, etc. for pennies each.  Please note that diodes and electrolytic capacitors have polarity.  We will discuss that after you post the outcome of your tests.

Again, sorry for the length of this post.  However, this will be a good learning experience.  Unfortunately, the issues that you are having with this radio are your "baptism by fire".  Again, please heed my warnings posted in CAPS, but don't get discouraged!  Like an old Home Depot commercial said, "You can do it.  We can help."

Good luck and keep us posted; we are happy to help!!