[DaleHCook]

I would replace that tube socket, but I have some new loctal replacements on hand. Replacing it can be tedious. My Metcal SP440 vacuum desoldering station will help in removing the wire. Tag the wires first (I use ScotchCode numbers) so you will know to which socket lug each one goes.

Removing the rivets can be a challenge. If I can't easily drill them out from below the chassis I would grind the heads off with a Dremel bit such as a Dremel 921 1/2" ball aluminum oxide grinding stone. I would put the new socket in with pop rivets.

My Dremel tool is my favorite power tool in the field for work or in the shop. I have about 100 Dremel bits. I have a wide assortment of pop rivets for work or in the shop and a quality tool to install them.

If you have to replace rubber wiring you should first thoroughly photograph the underside of the chassis. I stock PVC-insulated hookup wire in several gauges, in both solid and stranded, and in all ten RMA colors. It is best to replace one wire at a time, laying it out next to the old one to get the bends and placement right (lead dress can be vital), and stripping the ends before removing the old wire and installing the new. You should probably also replace the power cord.