02-02-2026, 11:58 PM
Hi Gary and welcome to the Philco Phorum. We are a family-friendly place and are very happy to have you as a member and to help you. Do take time to "surf" the Phorum, read the rules and "What not to post" section. Note that we have sections for non-Philco radios, TVs, HiFi, test equipment for sale or want to buy, etc. Don't forget to stop in at Old Ron's Bar and Grill for a virtual burger and brew.
Now, to your radio. I have not worked on a 38-10 but I can tell you this. Metal tubes were an RCA / GE concept. Philco's (and Zenith's) tube supplier was Sylvania who did not make metal tubes but did market a "metal-glass" tube. I am not sure, but I think that there was an aquadag coating ion the inside of the glass envelope and the aquadag was connected to the cathode instead to a dedicated shield like pin 1 on the RCA / GE metal versions. If i am correct regarding this, then a shield was not needed, nor was pin 1 needed as this internal shield was grounded to the chassis by the cathode pin, pin 8.
The schematic does not show shields but the pictorial shows the IF and detector / 1st AF tubes are shielded. I wonder if someone pulled the tube shield bases off the chassis because the bases of the metal tubes would not pass through it
How to go forward depends on how "period correct" you want to make the radio. Either change the tubes or change the sockets. It may be easier to change the tubes. Alternately, jumper pins 8 and 1 on the 6A8, 6K7 and 6Q7, as pin 1 is the shield on all of these tubes, pin 8 is the cathode on all 3 of these tubes and the cathode is grounded to the chassis on all 3 of these tubes.
After you deal with the pin 1 issue (and you DO have to ground pin 1 on the above 3 tubes to use metal tubes), if performance does not improve, check the following:
How long is your antenna wire and where is it. Is it in the basement? Are you grounding the ground pin (or the chassis) to a water pipe? Grounding may be necessary, especially in a weak signal area or whenyou have a lot of interference.
Is this the only set in your collection that requires an external antenna?
The amount of electrical noise is unbelievable. Between the computer, WiFi, the Internet of Things, CFLs, LEDs, cellular phones, unshielded house wiring, meters that can be read through the power lines, etc.
Try touching a 20ft or longer wire to the grid cap of the 6A8. Is there a dramatic improvement in reception?
If so, check the antenna coil primaries for shorts. The switch A1 / A2 must work. Ensure it is cleaned.
Hope this helps. Keep at it, you will succeed.
Now, to your radio. I have not worked on a 38-10 but I can tell you this. Metal tubes were an RCA / GE concept. Philco's (and Zenith's) tube supplier was Sylvania who did not make metal tubes but did market a "metal-glass" tube. I am not sure, but I think that there was an aquadag coating ion the inside of the glass envelope and the aquadag was connected to the cathode instead to a dedicated shield like pin 1 on the RCA / GE metal versions. If i am correct regarding this, then a shield was not needed, nor was pin 1 needed as this internal shield was grounded to the chassis by the cathode pin, pin 8.
The schematic does not show shields but the pictorial shows the IF and detector / 1st AF tubes are shielded. I wonder if someone pulled the tube shield bases off the chassis because the bases of the metal tubes would not pass through it
How to go forward depends on how "period correct" you want to make the radio. Either change the tubes or change the sockets. It may be easier to change the tubes. Alternately, jumper pins 8 and 1 on the 6A8, 6K7 and 6Q7, as pin 1 is the shield on all of these tubes, pin 8 is the cathode on all 3 of these tubes and the cathode is grounded to the chassis on all 3 of these tubes.
After you deal with the pin 1 issue (and you DO have to ground pin 1 on the above 3 tubes to use metal tubes), if performance does not improve, check the following:
How long is your antenna wire and where is it. Is it in the basement? Are you grounding the ground pin (or the chassis) to a water pipe? Grounding may be necessary, especially in a weak signal area or whenyou have a lot of interference.
Is this the only set in your collection that requires an external antenna?
The amount of electrical noise is unbelievable. Between the computer, WiFi, the Internet of Things, CFLs, LEDs, cellular phones, unshielded house wiring, meters that can be read through the power lines, etc.
Try touching a 20ft or longer wire to the grid cap of the 6A8. Is there a dramatic improvement in reception?
If so, check the antenna coil primaries for shorts. The switch A1 / A2 must work. Ensure it is cleaned.
Hope this helps. Keep at it, you will succeed.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Best Regards,
MrFixr55




