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MrFixr55 and Mike,

Understood about recapping but a question - as much as I have seen the advice about not turning on until recapped, I have also seen advice against "shotgunning" the repair and doing all the replacements at once with a number of people just doing the recapping in stages with power-on tests in between.  So is shotgunning the electrolytic and paper caps considered the good and proper way, and all other components should be done and tested incrementally?  It seems there are two schools of thought and I'm not trying to be argumentative, but would like to get some clarity.  Or am I misunderstanding the meaning of "shotgun" in the repair process?

For what it's worth, I think a number of these capacitors had been replaced already at some point, though still very old and still/again in need of replacement.  There were many leftover pieces of prior component leads that were just soldered over with new.

With that said, I went through and did the remaining 7 capacitors and 1 resistor.  Repeated my power-on procedure from before with the same result - silence, except for noise when adjusting the volume control, slight pops when switching among the tone control and power settings, and between band changes.  Again, no appreciable hum.

As for your troubleshooting steps, MrFixr55:

When ohming the output transformer, is it equivalent to test the contacts at the output transformer itself?  This is a big speaker, I suppose relatively speaking, and so far have not taken it from the cabinet, but put the chassis back in and reconnected for the power-on tests.  With the chassis back out, testing pins 3 and 4 on the 6F6 yielded no connection (infinite resistance, I guess) but again, the speaker was unplugged from the chassis.  Testing the pins at the socket on the speaker yielded:
Pins 1 to 3: 360 ohms
Pins 2 to 3: 961 ohms
Pins 1 to 2: 1322 ohms

I will need to search for a sacrificial audio cable tomorrow (later today) to do the phono input test.  I presume for the purpose of this test, we don't need to worry too much about stereo vs mono signals - garbled audio is still audio?

As for the voltage dividing resistor (candohm), yes, that has been completely replaced.  I did test for continuity across the far ends of the things wired to the specific junctions to the leads of the individual resistors themselves, pre- and post-soldering, so I'm reasonably confident about these solder joints, but if it comes down to it, I will test there.  I'm just trying to put off taking that speaker out as long as possible.  It's nice that the 6K3 has a disconnect, unlike my 37-620, but it's only so long.  An extender would make my life easier, but I'm not there yet either.

Best wishes,
Roy