10-09-2006, 06:21 PM
Hi,
I certainly wouldn't use epoxy, since this will just leave a problematic mess for the next guy tp clear up. If you really, really don't want to replace the innards, I would try breaking the tiny lead-in wires that lead inside the bakelite blocks (the tiny wires that connect to the block's lug and disappear through the eyelets). Do this on at least one end of each component, thereby isolating the old parts therein. Then simply wire the replacements between the lugs on the blocks; the wires will keep the component securely in place if kept short.
It really doesn't take too much to do the job properly though. One re-building procedure is decsribed here:- http://www.philcorepairbench.com/capbuild.htm
There are even some who rebuild with the blocks in-situ, with all leads attached. The trick is to break the tiny lead-in wires as described above, heat the block just enough then poke a small jeweller's screwdriver though the eyelet on the top of the block so as to push the tar-encased innards down against the chassis. Then remove the screw holding the block to the chassis (taking care to capture the little washer), carefully rotate the block and remove the loosened innards. New components can then be mounted inside without ever detaching the original wiring to the block. I've never tried it this way, but some swear by it.
Whatever you do, ensure that the original components inside the blocks are isolated. Also make sure you access to the Philco bakelite block bulletins:- http://www.philcorepairbench.com/bblokcap.htm and be aware that some blocks have resistors wired inside as well as caps.
The Philco 16 is a highly desirable tombstone and in my opinion it is worth taking the effort to do it right!
Good luck with it,
Paul
I certainly wouldn't use epoxy, since this will just leave a problematic mess for the next guy tp clear up. If you really, really don't want to replace the innards, I would try breaking the tiny lead-in wires that lead inside the bakelite blocks (the tiny wires that connect to the block's lug and disappear through the eyelets). Do this on at least one end of each component, thereby isolating the old parts therein. Then simply wire the replacements between the lugs on the blocks; the wires will keep the component securely in place if kept short.
It really doesn't take too much to do the job properly though. One re-building procedure is decsribed here:- http://www.philcorepairbench.com/capbuild.htm
There are even some who rebuild with the blocks in-situ, with all leads attached. The trick is to break the tiny lead-in wires as described above, heat the block just enough then poke a small jeweller's screwdriver though the eyelet on the top of the block so as to push the tar-encased innards down against the chassis. Then remove the screw holding the block to the chassis (taking care to capture the little washer), carefully rotate the block and remove the loosened innards. New components can then be mounted inside without ever detaching the original wiring to the block. I've never tried it this way, but some swear by it.
Whatever you do, ensure that the original components inside the blocks are isolated. Also make sure you access to the Philco bakelite block bulletins:- http://www.philcorepairbench.com/bblokcap.htm and be aware that some blocks have resistors wired inside as well as caps.
The Philco 16 is a highly desirable tombstone and in my opinion it is worth taking the effort to do it right!
Good luck with it,
Paul
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