Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 640 Cabinet Refinishing Chronicles

(12-12-2014, 03:35 AM)thirtiesradio Wrote:  Wow Geoff, you have really done a nice job on this cabinet. I usually don't go for gloss finishes but when done nicely like yours it looks great Icon_thumbup

I'm not huge on gloss finishes either but I always read that you should spray gloss because it doesn't have the dulling fines that are added to semi-gloss and satin lacquers. Without them the finish is more more durable. Then, depending upon what you use, you can rub the gloss out to whatever finish you want. I'm not totally convinced of this approach. What I have found is that yes, you can achieve a semi-gloss or satin after rubbing out gloss but you are left with very fine visible scratches. And then of course, as you continue rubbing to get rid of the scratches you are back to a gloss finish which I am trying to avoid.

The other factor that plays into how visible the scratches are is the color of what you are rubbing out. I finished rubbing out the top, sides, and columns with 4F pumice and mineral oil last night. It was getting late but for a quick test I rubbed out a small 4" x 4" section of the lighter brown on the front (rubbing with the grain). The dark top and sides showed visible scratches as shown in the photos above but in the lighter front section they were very difficult to see. On the front I used Mohawk Perfect Brown (M100-0249), a dye-based toner. On the top, sides, and columns I used a Mohawk pigment based toner (Extra Dark Walnut, #M101-0209). I think any pigment based toner would show the rub out scratches more than the dye based.

The plan next is to finish the 4F rub out on the front and then switch to Rottenstone. I'll post some pictures as time permits.

- Geoff


Messages In This Thread
RE: Philco 640 Cabinet Refinishing Chronicles - by Geoff - 12-12-2014, 02:21 PM



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Hi OSanders, Look carefully at the band switch. Turn it slowly and "wiggle" it around the desired band. ...MrFixr55 — 12:33 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
I think that RCA and GE introduced metal tubes in the USA in 1936.  I don't know if they were being made by RCA, GE or b...MrFixr55 — 11:20 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Vlad95, Thank you for the stringing guides and wow there are so manyosanders0311 — 06:01 PM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
A pre war Hallicrafters, and an early one too, very nice! 1936 is pretty early for metal tubes too, which would explain ...Arran — 05:58 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Thanks Rod, "When you hear the background hiss and no station it usually indicates that the oscillator quit" ...osanders0311 — 05:52 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
RodB :beerchug:Vlad95 — 10:22 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Vlad, you nailed it. Swiss and German roots.RodB — 09:54 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
Well this is a Hallicrafters SX/9 circa 1936. No real issues so far although I dodged a real bullet with a cap that was...bridkarl — 07:59 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
The pinout is the same but the 5U4 has a 3 amp filament, verses 2 amps or less on the 5Z4. I think that the pinout of a ...Arran — 12:04 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
By the way. osanders0311 Take a look here: Dial cord stringing Guides May be here you can fount correct string settin...Vlad95 — 11:15 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>