03-07-2015, 12:17 AM
The bottoms of those two caps are threaded and are held in place with a stamped, sheet metal nut. The nut has cut-outs on the sides to solder wires to. The metal is plated with something to make it solderable. The nut is the wire connection to the negative side of the cap.
One of the caps is inserted directly into the hole in the chassis without any insulators, so it should ground the negative to the chassis by contact. As Bob mentioned, the other cap is isolated from ground by insulating rings on both sides of the chassis to prevent both the cap body and the nut from touching the chassis.
The positive terminal of the cap is in the center, an aluminum wire coming out of the can and insulated from the sides of the hole with rubber. There is some kind of lug crimped onto it, if I remember, because you wouldn't be able to solder to the aluminum wire. When I restuffed mine, I replaced the aluminum wire with a piece of solid, insulated 12 gauge copper wire and soldered the + lead of the new cap internally to it. In one radio I crimped and soldered a lug onto the other end of the 12 ga. wire and in the other I made a loop in the wire and soldered to that loop.
I drilled a tiny hole just below the threads and brought out the negative cap lead wire through it. It doesn't matter if it touches the can. I soldered that wire to the nut so that the nut and anything soldered to it would connect to the negative of the new cap inside the can.
I think what you mean by the coil assembly is the row of coils used for the push-button oscillator coils. The coils were originally connected to the push button block with braid, and the common ends were connected with a straight piece of bare solid wire that looks like maybe 22 gauge. I doubt if it matters much if you use braid, but you might use stranded wire. I've seen people use solder wick to replace braid, though I've never done it myself. I've read that you should soak the solder wick in rubbing alcohol or similar solvent to remove the solder flux that is impregnated in the braid. Otherwise the solder wick will soak up the solder and turn pretty solid.
The single coil (transformer?), part 18, used for dial tuning of the 3 bands is connected with ordinary wire, some solid, some stranded if I remember right. I replaced the rubber coated wires with 20 gauge stranded and left the cloth covered wires alone. There is also an antenna loading coil, part 5A, and it is also connected with ordinary wire, stranded and cloth-covered, I think.
One of the caps is inserted directly into the hole in the chassis without any insulators, so it should ground the negative to the chassis by contact. As Bob mentioned, the other cap is isolated from ground by insulating rings on both sides of the chassis to prevent both the cap body and the nut from touching the chassis.
The positive terminal of the cap is in the center, an aluminum wire coming out of the can and insulated from the sides of the hole with rubber. There is some kind of lug crimped onto it, if I remember, because you wouldn't be able to solder to the aluminum wire. When I restuffed mine, I replaced the aluminum wire with a piece of solid, insulated 12 gauge copper wire and soldered the + lead of the new cap internally to it. In one radio I crimped and soldered a lug onto the other end of the 12 ga. wire and in the other I made a loop in the wire and soldered to that loop.
I drilled a tiny hole just below the threads and brought out the negative cap lead wire through it. It doesn't matter if it touches the can. I soldered that wire to the nut so that the nut and anything soldered to it would connect to the negative of the new cap inside the can.
I think what you mean by the coil assembly is the row of coils used for the push-button oscillator coils. The coils were originally connected to the push button block with braid, and the common ends were connected with a straight piece of bare solid wire that looks like maybe 22 gauge. I doubt if it matters much if you use braid, but you might use stranded wire. I've seen people use solder wick to replace braid, though I've never done it myself. I've read that you should soak the solder wick in rubbing alcohol or similar solvent to remove the solder flux that is impregnated in the braid. Otherwise the solder wick will soak up the solder and turn pretty solid.
The single coil (transformer?), part 18, used for dial tuning of the 3 bands is connected with ordinary wire, some solid, some stranded if I remember right. I replaced the rubber coated wires with 20 gauge stranded and left the cloth covered wires alone. There is also an antenna loading coil, part 5A, and it is also connected with ordinary wire, stranded and cloth-covered, I think.
John Honeycutt
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