[morzh]

Arran,

yes, I was able to tes my UX201A on my Hickok usin 01A settings.
The question is, how do I put the UX-socketed tubes I have (good ones) into the bayonetted sockets (all the bayonetted 01A that Ron had are duds. 4 out of 5 don't even have filaments working).

[morzh]

OK.

First let me tell you an old Soviet joke my mom the physician told me long time ago.

In a med school, in the anathomical theater, the anatomy professor standing near a corpse, which is in not so good a condition, addresses his students:
"A physician should not be squeamish."
With these words, he pokes the dead body with his finger, which finger goes right through, then pulls it back and licks it. Then he says:
"OK, who's going to repit this?"
A young fellow, emboldened by this, comes forward and repeats the same, using his index finger.

The professor then praises the young man, and adds:
"As I have told you many times before, a physician should also be very observant."
He shows them his hand:
"I poke the corpse with this" - he produces his index finger, - "but I liked this" - and he shows them his middle finger.



Why have I told you this?
I've been doing all this search because I thought I needed an adaptor from UV base to the UX base.
What I totally missed was the fact that:
- The UX base DOES have the bayonet locking pin on its side, and
- the distance from that pin to the tips of the base pins is the same as in the UV base.

So, the UX tubes go and lock in those UV sockets just fine.

The question is withdrawn.

The radio restorer should be observant

To my defence: them black bases totally masked the presense of the locator pin.
I tested 6 tubes in my Hickok 600A, and never noticed them.

[Eliot Ness]

Glad to see you starting on this Mike. You had me puzzled about the lack of tube pins, glad you finally fingered it out. We all miss the forest due to those darn trees now and then.

I think you'll be pleased with the ARBE power supply, I've yet to hear of anyone having issues with one. The maker has shown up at Kutztown a few times and is a very nice person.

[RodB]

Mike, in the words of Gilda Radner: "Oh! Never mind."
Tackling something different can have it's challenges.

I've watched people on YouTube rewind those transformer primary windings. But they've got all the right tools.

[Arran]

Mike;
With regards to the earlier UX201A tubes that came with the set, It may be worth having a go at resoldering the pins, if nobody has already done so, quite often what tests as a dead, or open filament tube is more because of failed 95-100 year old solder then because the tube is actually bad. With regard to the locating pin, they carried on using those even on 2 volt battery radio tubes into the 1930s, the Freshman I have came with a #32 stuffed in one of the sockets, which is basically a 2 volt DC version of a 24A.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Arran

Thanks for the idea, I will try to re-solder the pins.
Out of the 5, one is loose in the base as well as dead as all the others; one actually has the filament OK, but has 0 emission. Again, worth trying to touch the pins up: the Plate and the Grid could be disconnected.


Rod,

Yeah I wish I'd save one xfmr thag is good, but it is potted together with the bad, and going through freeze-knocking out etc, plus the wires that have to be re-insulated, plus it being old and quite possibly repeating the fate of the majority of its brethren, I question the practicality of it.



John,

I spoke to Pat, the guy who is the support and builds and repairs things. He goes to Kutztown also.
They are backed up right now so it could be awhile; but I ain't in no hurry. This thing will take me awhile to figure out before I am ready to power it up.



I am asking myself this question: should I refinish the board. On one hand, there was that beautiful walnut finish that survived under the output amp.
On the other hand, it is not bad as it is, and it shows that patina that should be there after 102 years. And some furniture cleaners-restorers could probably revitalize it a bit.
What do you guys think?

[radiorich]

Hello morzh,
I would not refinish the AK and try restoring the finish first !
Sincerely Richard

[RodB]

Try the revitalizing, it shouldn't take a big effort, if that doesn't come out right do the refinish. You'll have time.

[Dave Slusarczyk]

I agree with others. Do not refinish. Clean/treat/polish

[morzh]

What are the good clean/treat/polish snake oils' names?
And in what sequence do I apply them?

[morzh]

If anyone has experience with AK10, are these the transformers that most folks use?

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/...tage-10-ma

[Arran]

Mike;
Start with using the hand cleaner, as you probably would, then see what's under the dirt, after that you can decide what the next step is. It may look perfectly acceptable without doing anything else.
Regards
Arran

[Vlad95]

In a similar case, I use the "Restore-A-Finish" after cleaning .

Restor-A-Finish on Amazon

   

[morzh]

Yeah, I thought of first using GoJo or Goop.
Then see what's there.

[radiorich]

Hello morzh,
Sounds like a good plan !!
Gojo or goop will do wonders for you !
Sincerely Richard