[462ron]

Hi all, need advice on what toner colors I should use on my 620B. Also, what type of clear finish was used: satin, semi-gloss, gloss, etc. Thanks for your advice!

Ron

[Ron Ramirez]

Most of the cabinet should be Extra Dark Walnut. Top, sides, bottom trim, and the area of the front panel above the upper groove in the panel (which is above the speaker grille).

The rest of the front panel should be Medium Walnut.

The original finish was gloss lacquer. Most collectors prefer satin or semi-gloss. I would use gloss if it were mine.

[462ron]

Thanks Ron, this will be my first cabinet refinish! 

Ron

[Ron Ramirez]

You can do it...just remember that lacquer is forgiving. If you really mess up, it is easy to strip and start over.

[462ron]

I will be using rattle cans so we will see how it goes. Chassis is done and plays great!

[Ron Ramirez]

That's what I use, and I think my efforts have become more or less satisfactory. The pros use spray guns and mix their own toning lacquer...that's a bit out of my league, I think

[Video: https://youtu.be/_VrFV5r8cs0]

[Phlogiston]

For a newbie, squirting from rattle cans, THE MOST important tip is - - DO NOT put it on too heavy.

The reflex is to paint the toner is if it were - paint. It is not (well it is but-). It is to give tone to the finish. In the case of the "classic" you should be able to see through the color (tone). Uneven is better than too dark. You can put on more later.

In the case of the solid colors (tone), some are used heavily such as VD brown. Which makes trim almost black. BUT this too may be too heavy. Being able to see the grain or shade just a section makes for a good finish.

The GE below is a good example. It does not have any nice veneer on the front. Even the bird's eye is faux (I painted it back on). So all of the shading is done with toner - by airbrush, in this case.

   

Ron, and anybody who likes refinishing should get a compressor/paint gun - and probably an airbrush. Stay away from Harbor F. Tools.

[Ron Ramirez]

Russ

Oh, I know I should, but I haven't yet been able to justify the investment. Now, if I started doing a lot of consoles (and I don't really see that happening on a large scale), I might consider it. But then I would have to unlearn everything I've learned about using rattle cans and learn a totally new system, including how to mix my own toner...oy vey...

P.S. I don't really like refinishing. It's just a necessary evil for me. It is nice to be able to put a restored radio chassis into a cabinet that looks nice.

P.P.S. That GE is beautiful

[462ron]

Thanks for your input Russ. I remember when I was in my teens, dad use to spray paint his cars right on the street in front of the house, he used a spray gun. So one day he handed me the gun and said try it on the gas filler door. I did and the paint just ran and dripped on the ground. I hope to do better on this cabinet! I, like Ron, don't really get into cabinet work so it will be cans for now. Your cabinet is exquisite!

Ron

[462ron]

I have finished stripping the cabinet and have advanced through grain filling ,toning, so far so good. So now I am applying the clear lacquer finish and have noticed how very quickly lacquer dries. My question now is since I need to apply several coats, do I need to wait a day or can I reapply in like 10 minutes or so? Also, when it is finally finished, is there a waiting period before paste waxing. Thanks

Ron

[Phlogiston]

You don't need to wait a day.

A lot depends on your technique and humidity. Mostly you are trying not to trap moisture and other solvents in the finish making it blush (white haze).

Best to not wax it for 6 months. Along the same lines, do not place any object on top of the radio for a year.

[462ron]

Thanks Russ for the info. What do you use to rub out the finish and how long should I wait after the final clear coating?

Ron

[Phlogiston]

I use a 3M machine buffing compound. The longer you wait, the better the polish will work. At least a week, but a month is better.

[462ron]

Much appreciated Russ, I think a few more coats of clear and I will let it sit for a while then the rub out and polish!

Ron

[Nathan Slingerland]

Very interesting Russ - I've used the Belhen rottenstone and pumice technique described here:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14827

Any idea how that compares to the 3M machine buffing compound?

Is this product the product you use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Perfect-Buffin...B01MZ83AZ9