[wu8v]

I have started a project with my 37-9, and started the process of rebuilding the bakelite block caps.

In Chuck's instructions (which are spot on) he mentions using laquer thinner to clean the residue out of the newly emptied cases.

If you are worried about flammability and smell, there is an alternative that I have found works very well, and it's really cheap.

Ed's Red gun bore cleaner, used by shotgunners, is a mixture of exqual parts automatic transmission fluid, kerosene, and oderless mineral spirits. Cheap, easy to make, and works well cleaning the innards of those tarboats. This is a modification of the full recipie (which also includes a bit of lanolin and some acetone) that I have been using for a while on the shotguns, and it worked great for those, and for the tarboats.

If you would like to see the real article, http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

Just thought that I would pass it along.

73,
Kurt

[exray]

WD-40 works good too.

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks, guys, for the handy tips!

[gary rabbitt]

Hi Kurt,
To make your work easier, there is no need to do a cleanup, if you start the job right.

I just recapped an Philco 20 with 5 or 6 blocks, and each took less than 3 or 4 minutes each. I do not remove them from the chassis, I leave 'em wired in. I do cut the tiny cap wires at the terminals. Take the hold down bolt off, flip the block over, the do the heating on the sides of the block.

When I started rebuilding the blocks, it did get messy. That was because I was heating the block too high, and digging the tar out from the bottomside, melting tar all over, heating it too hot.

The cleanest way to remove the plug is to only heat the block just enough so the tar will slide freely, but way before the point of melting.
I use a small embossing heat gun, but you can use the hair dryer. By doing this, and just like Cheuck's tutorial, you can push the old plug out in one piece from the backside. 99% of the time ALL the tar pushes out in one piece. No need for trans fluid, thinner, Q-tips, Wesson oil, and all that messy stuff. I mean, lacquer thinner does dissolve the tar that is left, but my goal is to have no tar left over in the first place.

I use a thin steel rod to push them out.

Pop in your new caps, solder in and you are done. No need to refill with anything.

Take care,
Gary.

[Joe Rossi]

Cleaning them out...what an idea! I use a dog groomers dryer (hands-free) to heat 'em up, push 'em out and use a popsicle stick to remove any small globs that might be left. No chemicals, no nothin! Heck, we replace the darn thing and nobody'll see the underside again for another 30-40 years. Hmmm, lets see, I'll be 85-90 years old if the Lord doesn't return first. Anyway, thats one more way of cleaning the little buggers!

[gary rabbitt]

Good deal Joe,

I will admit, than on a couple of the caps I rebuilt, I left a little bit of tar inside one of the blocks. Not much to cause any grief, it was just a small blob on the side of the shell

When I started rebuilding these, I completely removed them and did the sanitary cleanup, install the new caps and re-solder back in. Nowadays, if I can flip the block over, even if I have to remove one wire or so, I do that. Much faster and just as clean.

One thing, I don't know if I mentioned it or not, is to make a note under the chassis noting that the bloxks have been rebuilt wih a date. I simply pencil it in sometimes, or made a tiny label attached to the underside ststing the rebuild and date.
You don't want someone cutting them all out, thinking they are still the originals. Especially if you restuff wax caps.

Take care,
Gary.

[Joe Rossi]

Gary,

Putting a rebuild date is a great idea. Gonna do that on the next Philco! Have a great evening, friend.

Joe