[Greg]

I more or less finished one of two 5-S-127 chassis, recapped, reresisotored (if that's a word)... It works on all bands pretty well but still needs to be aligned, voltages need better checking and the dial needs replacing.

But I think it's getting displaced from the "workbench" by the 37-116 I got last week. So that's it for now.

I tried some things I'd like to apply to the 37-116. I think these things helped the appearance...

- Electrolytics restuffed and negative terminals soldered to insides of  the original aluminum cans.

- Paper caps restuffed, ends capped off with beeswax and lightly coated with wax. Anybody think it's a bad idea to use beeswax? They aren't full of it, just the very end. I stuck cardboard disks into the ends before waxing. I'd like something that melted at a bit higher temp. Carnauba seems shrink and crack as it cools. I tried mix but not much better.

- Resistors replaced with new ones all encapsulated with resin to appear to be dog bones. They seem to have originally used both dog bone and non but with no rhyme or reason to which where. Probably just availability.

Before (Photos don't do justice to filth on it.):

   

   

After:

   

   

[jake wells]

Nice job.

[Eliot Ness]

You've got that chassis shined up all nice and pretty Greg, good job.  I think beeswax is just fine.... often I'll use brown hot glue and sometimes top it with beeswax.

Edit: what process did you use to make the dogbone resistors?

[Greg]

John -

I describe making the dog bone resistors here:
https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=20489

For the larger, 1W, ones there are 2 resistors in series. I also added thicker leads.
Since the smaller, 1/2W, ones are similar in size to the dog bone original it's difficult to add thicker leads. Not much room left in the mold.

I dyed the resin black so if it shows through the paint it will look like the original carbon.

I didn't do it, but I thought of painting the ends silver to mimic solder attaching the originals' leads to the carbon rod. Then I add the body color over that. A little silver showing would make them more realistic. But I figured at that point it would be a bit pathological so I stopped .

By the way does anybody know how they soldered the leads to carbon/binder rod. That doesn't seem possible.