[RodB]

÷1 to Sincere Richard. I use Mouser but either is the way to go. I'm sure the others, like justradios, are in the group. You can be assured of not getting knockoffs

[morzh]

I would check things around before simply replacing the transistor.
Something killef it.

[462ron]

Yes, if the speaker was disconnected or bad connections, it could cause high enough voltage spikes on the collector to kill it especially if the volume was up high!

Ron

[R3Sons]

Indeed. Thank you all. I'll remove and test the rest of the transistors. I'm trying to trace everything at the test points. I'm really not sure why I don't have 10v at 19. There's just the one resistor at K5. I used to have 10v, but now it's 12. The only thing that changed was removing X6. I have no idea what happened to these before I got them. I'm trying to get one running for my cousin. He just got a 1965 Falcon and would like a radio. The guy he got the car from had these two radios, so no telling when they stopped working or why. I really appreciate everyone's help. Thank you.

[R3Sons]

I'm a little befuddled on this one. Should X5 and X4 be tied together like this?  It looks like someone added this at some point.  I haven't removed them yet, I wanted to see what you thought before I did.  It looks kind of funny to me.

[morzh]

I suspect it's been repaired before.
And I suspect whoever repaired it, wanted to re-use old transistors' pin stubs in order not to desolder them.
I also suspect that if you look at the other side of the PCB, you might find delaminated/unglued traces.

Inspect the whole thing, and try to stick to the schematic.

[R3Sons]

Thanks, will do.

[morzh]

Oh...and you have electrolytic caps there.
All need to go and be replaced.

[R3Sons]

Quick progress report:
X7 is broken. Only one leg soldered, the other missing and the diode is cracked.
I've replaced all of the electrolytics.
C1 is confusing me. The parts list had two different values, but I can only find one C1 on the schematic. I have a 270uf in there now, I suppose I should change that to the 1000uf.
Point 1 is 12.2v, point 2 is 10V, but everything else is 11.5v, not really sure why.
I'll need to replace X6 and X7.

[morzh]

If you are still on 5TPO, you lost me there. What X7? What Points 1 and 2?

[R3Sons]

Yeah, I'm still on 5TPO. Sorry, my bad, points 1 and 2 should be points 18 and 19 (easy mistake   )  X7 is shown in the picture.
I'm closing in (I thought I was). I'm just having the darndest time finding transistors.  I found the diode for 91 cents, but the shipping is 8 bucks.  I'd like to get everything at one place. Between both radios I need a complete set, plus an additional X6.
I've searched everywhere, but I can't find those or any direct replacements.  I really don't want to sort through a whole bunch of data sheets.  Does anybody have a line on the replacements, or a way I might be able figure that out?

Thank you all again.  I think I'm almost there.  Oh, I was getting a fair amount of scratching through the speaker.

[morzh]

OK, so 18 and 19 as they should be.
What is "everything else?"
Try to be more specific in your descriptions: there are many points, and they all will have very different values.

The diode: find any Ge diode, small signal high frequency, 20V or more Vr.

This is the original on eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204896261569?_s...R_Tj4IKgZQ


On Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/ALLECIN-1N60-Scho...673&sr=8-3


No, I am not sure you could buy 1 pc and have it shipped for $1.

[R3Sons]

Sorry. The test points are as follows:

1 - 0v
2 - 0v
3 - 0v
4 - 12v
5 - 0v
6 - 11.9v
7 - 12v
8 - 12v
9 - 12v
10 12v
11 - 11.5v
12 - 11.5v
13 - 0v
14 - 10.8v
15 - 5.4v
16 - 12v
17 - 12.2v
18 - 12.2v
19 - 12v
20 - 11.5v
21 - 11.5v
22 - 11.5v
23 - 10.83v
24 - 11.5v

[morzh]

1 - 0v - correct
2 - 0v - correct
3 - 0v - --------------------- both 3 and 4 should be the same. Check L2 for being open.
4 - 12v - --------------------
5 - 0v - should be the same as 3 and 4
6 - 11.9v - has to be lower than 19 which is 10V
7 - 12v - wrong
8 - 12v - wrong, has to be 0V, check L5 primary for open
9 - 12v - same, has to be 0V
10 - 12v - wrong, has to be lower than 19, which is 10V
11 - 11.5v wrong has to be 0V. Check X8 to be shorted or reversed.
12 - 11.5v
13 - 0v
14 - 10.8v - no way in he**. Has to be 0.6V. Your X4 is likely fried. X5 might be as well.
15 - 5.4v
16 - 12v
17 - 12.2v
18 - 12.2v
19 - 12v
20 - 11.5v
21 - 11.5v
22 - 11.5v
23 - 10.83v - same as 14.
24 - 11.5v


Enough for now.

Check every transistor and every diode.
Make sure all electrolytics are replaced.
Check all inductances for continuity.
Check all capacitances, like 0.0047uF inside K4, for shorts.


PS. Are you measuring relative to GND (like C2 minus) or chassis/case (like M3 cap bottom symbol).
PPS. Is #1891 a lamp? Is this how the 0V connected to GND? Is it connected?
PPPS. You said before your point 19 WAS at 10V. Why is in this table of yours it is now 12V?

[462ron]

Here is an online transistor substitution site…
https://www.sourceresearch.com/store1/qu...?do=search

Ron