Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

37-116 Help
#1

I just recapped my 37-116. Ran it for about 20 minutes, everything sounded great. I heard a little pop under the chassis and said to myself--- " that doesn't sound good". A few seconds later the radio quit and a little smoke appeared from under the chassis. I found that the smoke came from resistor #121 an 18 ohm to ground. Ref.Volume #7-31-32. Any suggestions on where to start looking for what has failed?
Thanks
Bill
#2

Bill McChesney Wrote:I just recapped my 37-116. Ran it for about 20 minutes, everything sounded great. I heard a little pop under the chassis and said to myself--- " that doesn't sound good". A few seconds later the radio quit and a little smoke appeared from under the chassis. I found that the smoke came from resistor #121 an 18 ohm to ground. Ref.Volume #7-31-32. Any suggestions on where to start looking for what has failed?
Thanks
Bill

Bill.

This is just a beginning and basic answer. Hopefully someone like Chuck will slip in and answer more in depth. The resister itself is a good place to start with replacement, but somehow you have to ask yourself what made it POP. Is there something else in the circuit or is it isolated to just the bad component itself.

Sorry I cannot offer something else more in detail, but that's a good start perhaps.

73 de,

Gary/N9VU
#3

Hello Bill:

I just re-capped my 37-116X manual tuning. I think you should check that C123, the 10 micro farad electrolytic cap, is wired in with the correct polarity as shown in the schematic. In fact, you should check that all the electrolytics have the schematic's polarities. The schematic is correct. Also, there is a production change which changes C126 and C127 from 8 to 4 micro farads each. I hope this helps.

William
#4

Thanks Gary and William, It was the #123 cap. When I replaced all the caps I replaced this cap with a 10mf @450. When I tested this cap with my volt/ohm meter it tested @ 35K. I thought that kind of odd in that I usually find them open or shorted but not a high resistance short. I just removed this cap completely and the radio workds fine.
Thanks for your help.
Bill




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Vlad95, Thank you for the stringing guides and wow there are so manyosanders0311 — 06:01 PM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
A pre war Hallicrafters, and an early one too, very nice! 1936 is pretty early for metal tubes too, which would explain ...Arran — 05:58 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Thanks Rod, "When you hear the background hiss and no station it usually indicates that the oscillator quit" ...osanders0311 — 05:52 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
RodB :beerchug:Vlad95 — 10:22 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Vlad, you nailed it. Swiss and German roots.RodB — 09:54 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
Well this is a Hallicrafters SX/9 circa 1936. No real issues so far although I dodged a real bullet with a cap that was...bridkarl — 07:59 AM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
The pinout is the same but the 5U4 has a 3 amp filament, verses 2 amps or less on the 5Z4. I think that the pinout of a ...Arran — 12:04 AM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
By the way. osanders0311 Take a look here: Dial cord stringing Guides May be here you can fount correct string settin...Vlad95 — 11:15 PM
5U4 vs 5Z4 tubes
5U4 and 5Z4 almost identical. I think nothing happened if you left 5U4 instedad 5Z4 long time. Just heater current 5U4 ...Vlad95 — 11:02 PM
Philco 42-345 Restoration/Repair
Hello Vlad95 , Very Funny ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 11:01 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 1004 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 1001 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>