Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

16b tombstone, code 121
#1

According to the code 121 schematic, there is a 10 mfd cap. (#75) between the driver's secondary center tapping and the ground. And there is one on mine,under the chassis, recent replacement. Later 16b sets had such capacitors installed on the chassis (small aluminum can), but in my case there is no provision for it . I checked some photos of the 121 code sets and could not find such capacitor on the top of the chassis.
Also, any place I can find the new large rubber ring for the dial wheel? I can make one, but if the professionally made ones available, I would rather go that way. Thanks.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013139.pdf
#2

5-band Model 16 sets with the separate electrolytic (75) are early production. Later production models included (75) with one of the main electrolytics, making it a 2-section unit. I'm not near my service info at present, so I do not remember which one but I suspect it was probably (88 ).

If a 16 chassis has the separate capacitor (75), it was mounted under the chassis, not on top.

As for the rubber rings, look here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/drive.htm

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Ron,

I just looked deeper behind all those new caps and wires and one original E-cap IS, indeed, dual.
Thanks so much.
#4

Remember, the positive end of (75) goes to ground. Negative to B-. 10 uF, 50 volts is more than sufficient as a replacement for (75).

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#5

I made that mistake once.....
#6

Live and learn... It is so easy to screw up-unless paying good attention to the schematic. Especially with a dual e-cap.
#7

Well...fixing radios is about reading schematics. Why would anyone not pay good attention to it?
Icon_confused
#8

That is when one feels so good about his find, that he gets overexcited.
#9

Fields 100;

Congratulations on selecting an excellent Philco to restore! This is a very good performing set when working correctly. It is well worth the effort to restore.

We will be glad to help along the way.

Joe
KC5LY




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
So one last question before I finish this radio. Regarding the speaker and output transformer. I salvaged the original o...Stormlord5500 — 09:31 AM
462ron
It’s on the bottom of the homepage of our Philcoradio.com homepage! Ron462ron — 07:20 AM
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
Steve might have some trim left. Not sure he is making anything.morzh — 06:12 AM
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
Hello musar, First all welcome to the forum and yes that is true that steve stopped making trim . Sincerely Richar...radiorich — 12:13 AM
Model 70 Cabinet Trim
I have recently come into possession of a Model 70.  The trim around the base needs to be replaced.  If this were years ...musar — 12:07 AM
philcorepairbench.com - shadow-meter
Anyone know of a way to recover these files from the repair bench? Thanks. fenbach — 11:16 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
That's true. Of course If I were to get a vtvm I'd probably have to sink money in to it to get it working right. Probabl...Stormlord5500 — 08:44 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
A DMM is good enough. One rarely has to measure indictance, but if you do, short of getting a serious LCR meter (I hav...morzh — 07:35 PM
Testing a speaker and output transformer Trutone A2-G
You guy's are right on. I found a broken wire on the speaker plug that I replaced and all is well now. Have better volu...murf — 03:43 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
I need to get a vtvm. I think that little component tester is just more accurate. Plus it shows the inductance which is ...Stormlord5500 — 03:07 PM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 819 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 816 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>