<![CDATA[The PHILCO Phorum - Vintage Hi-Fi, Stereo and Audio]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/ Sat, 24 Oct 2026 05:02:02 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Fisher 400 resurrection attempt]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26607 Wed, 08 Jul 2026 13:49:37 -0500 TV MAN]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26607

Now, the task at hand: Bring this back to life! You can see from the pictures, it came missing all the tubes (it was described that way), and knobs. The seller did a very good job packing it, so it arrived intact, unlike a couple others that didn't fare as well. I could have spent way more money and bought something that included tubes, knobs and cabinet. But, most likely I'd still have to replace a bunch of tubes and do the recap, etc. The front panel isn't too bad, a few light scratched and dings that wouldn't be seen in a cabinet, no rust and it looks original, so no failed resto attempts. Dial cord is intact and power switch works.  

.jpeg Fisher 400 4.jpeg Size: 122 KB  Downloads: 156


At a minimum, I have something to start with. I had enough tubes on hand to to populate most of it, but was short the tuning eye, one IF tube and a pair of outputs. I did find a sub for the IF tube,  but only had one pair of bulbs for the output and had to borrow those from my instrument amp. I knew it had been plugged in by the seller and saw the dial lights on, so I knew there was some life in there, but no idea how much, or if the output transformers were good. I brought it up with one pair of output tubes, kept it on the dim bulb and voltage down, and here are the results as of now:

Some previous resistance checks showed continuity on all windings of the OPTs, no shorts to the chassis, and the main filter cans looked intact. I did an initial 50v tubeless power up, then to 90v and no smoke, . All voltages were present, although I think the -bias on the output tubes was a little off, and noted it got higher (less -) as it ran. The bias filter cap shows signs of - yuk! All tubes lit, and after some coaxing I did manage to get a signal coming through on the R channel! I switched the tubes over to the other channel and same. I can get a signal through, so I believe all the iron is good. I could also get a signal from the phono input on 1 channel, but the FM is dead. I could hear a very faint hiss with the volume control all the way up, but no stations. The plastic wheel on the tuner is broken, so I only went so far. I suspect the good ole' silver mica disease, but need to make some more checks. As of right now, that's as far as I got. It is an earlier production according to the serial number, and I don't have the service info on my bench. I did find a pair of NOS 7868 tubes, so I can at least run both channels at the same time - if I rob from my instrument amp again. 

I went NOS because I read the pin diameter on the EH ones were bigger and would ruin the sockets, and I'm trying to keep it stock. Figured it's be better to search and wait rather than be changing sockets. This will probably not be a rapid project and will work on things as I find parts, time and see just what is there. 

.jpeg Fisher 400 5.jpeg Size: 100.11 KB  Downloads: 161

.jpeg Fisher 400 3.jpeg Size: 152.15 KB  Downloads: 164

.jpeg Fisher 400 2.jpeg Size: 224.49 KB  Downloads: 164
]]>

Now, the task at hand: Bring this back to life! You can see from the pictures, it came missing all the tubes (it was described that way), and knobs. The seller did a very good job packing it, so it arrived intact, unlike a couple others that didn't fare as well. I could have spent way more money and bought something that included tubes, knobs and cabinet. But, most likely I'd still have to replace a bunch of tubes and do the recap, etc. The front panel isn't too bad, a few light scratched and dings that wouldn't be seen in a cabinet, no rust and it looks original, so no failed resto attempts. Dial cord is intact and power switch works.  

.jpeg Fisher 400 4.jpeg Size: 122 KB  Downloads: 156


At a minimum, I have something to start with. I had enough tubes on hand to to populate most of it, but was short the tuning eye, one IF tube and a pair of outputs. I did find a sub for the IF tube,  but only had one pair of bulbs for the output and had to borrow those from my instrument amp. I knew it had been plugged in by the seller and saw the dial lights on, so I knew there was some life in there, but no idea how much, or if the output transformers were good. I brought it up with one pair of output tubes, kept it on the dim bulb and voltage down, and here are the results as of now:

Some previous resistance checks showed continuity on all windings of the OPTs, no shorts to the chassis, and the main filter cans looked intact. I did an initial 50v tubeless power up, then to 90v and no smoke, . All voltages were present, although I think the -bias on the output tubes was a little off, and noted it got higher (less -) as it ran. The bias filter cap shows signs of - yuk! All tubes lit, and after some coaxing I did manage to get a signal coming through on the R channel! I switched the tubes over to the other channel and same. I can get a signal through, so I believe all the iron is good. I could also get a signal from the phono input on 1 channel, but the FM is dead. I could hear a very faint hiss with the volume control all the way up, but no stations. The plastic wheel on the tuner is broken, so I only went so far. I suspect the good ole' silver mica disease, but need to make some more checks. As of right now, that's as far as I got. It is an earlier production according to the serial number, and I don't have the service info on my bench. I did find a pair of NOS 7868 tubes, so I can at least run both channels at the same time - if I rob from my instrument amp again. 

I went NOS because I read the pin diameter on the EH ones were bigger and would ruin the sockets, and I'm trying to keep it stock. Figured it's be better to search and wait rather than be changing sockets. This will probably not be a rapid project and will work on things as I find parts, time and see just what is there. 

.jpeg Fisher 400 5.jpeg Size: 100.11 KB  Downloads: 161

.jpeg Fisher 400 3.jpeg Size: 152.15 KB  Downloads: 164

.jpeg Fisher 400 2.jpeg Size: 224.49 KB  Downloads: 164
]]> <![CDATA[Techmoan's latest review Scott T33S]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26574 Sat, 20 Jun 2026 09:57:44 -0500 radiorich]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26574 This is a great video on the Scott second-generation digital tuner model T33S by Techmoan, who always makes excellent content. What’s wild is that the sticker price for this unit in the early ’70s was $1,000—wow. Hopefully, everyone enjoys the video. Does anyone own one of these? I’ve only read about them and have never seen one in person.
Sincerely Richard


]]> This is a great video on the Scott second-generation digital tuner model T33S by Techmoan, who always makes excellent content. What’s wild is that the sticker price for this unit in the early ’70s was $1,000—wow. Hopefully, everyone enjoys the video. Does anyone own one of these? I’ve only read about them and have never seen one in person.
Sincerely Richard


]]> <![CDATA[Full Recap vs Break/Fix Repair: Vintage Receiver]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26501 Tue, 19 May 2026 19:25:53 -0500 radiorich]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26501
Here’s a great video on when to do a full recap and when to skip it and just replace the bad capacitor or part . 

Sincerely Richard
]]>
Here’s a great video on when to do a full recap and when to skip it and just replace the bad capacitor or part . 

Sincerely Richard
]]> <![CDATA[newest project Pioneer Sa-9500]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26483 Tue, 12 May 2026 22:23:03 -0500 radiorich]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26483
I will up load some photos of the Ampifier and my progress one thing I did notice on the lower tone board there is that nasty word  "Tantalum capacitors" also some the electrolytics are Sanyo brand .

Here is that Photo of the Amp !
.jpg Pioneer sa9500 amp front.jpg Size: 329.89 KB  Downloads: 143


Sincerely Richard]]>
I will up load some photos of the Ampifier and my progress one thing I did notice on the lower tone board there is that nasty word  "Tantalum capacitors" also some the electrolytics are Sanyo brand .

Here is that Photo of the Amp !
.jpg Pioneer sa9500 amp front.jpg Size: 329.89 KB  Downloads: 143


Sincerely Richard]]> <![CDATA[Dynaco FM-3 revival]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26457 Tue, 28 Apr 2026 08:24:59 -0500 TV MAN]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26457
The next thing was to redo the filter can to avoid either a ka-boom or that magic smoke. Since I didn't happen to have a suitable can laying around and really didn't want to spend $50 ordering one, I did the individual caps. Probably not the prettiest thing but it's not for looks either, and it worked. So - got that done and it works pretty good overall, but think it could use an alignment touch up. I also need to test tubes to make sure I don't have any weak ones messing up things. Looks like it's got some hours on it but don't see evidence of much tinkering other than finding some "Groove Tubes" in those shields. 

I included a picture of the knobs - they are quite dull. Does anyone know a way to brighten up those to look better? Something to soak them in maybe?

.jpeg fm3-10.jpeg Size: 234.43 KB  Downloads: 274

.jpeg fm3-9.jpeg Size: 203.66 KB  Downloads: 276

.jpeg fm3-7.jpeg Size: 238.02 KB  Downloads: 272

.jpeg fm3-6.jpeg Size: 133.68 KB  Downloads: 270

.jpeg fm3-3.jpeg Size: 100.4 KB  Downloads: 244
]]>
The next thing was to redo the filter can to avoid either a ka-boom or that magic smoke. Since I didn't happen to have a suitable can laying around and really didn't want to spend $50 ordering one, I did the individual caps. Probably not the prettiest thing but it's not for looks either, and it worked. So - got that done and it works pretty good overall, but think it could use an alignment touch up. I also need to test tubes to make sure I don't have any weak ones messing up things. Looks like it's got some hours on it but don't see evidence of much tinkering other than finding some "Groove Tubes" in those shields. 

I included a picture of the knobs - they are quite dull. Does anyone know a way to brighten up those to look better? Something to soak them in maybe?

.jpeg fm3-10.jpeg Size: 234.43 KB  Downloads: 274

.jpeg fm3-9.jpeg Size: 203.66 KB  Downloads: 276

.jpeg fm3-7.jpeg Size: 238.02 KB  Downloads: 272

.jpeg fm3-6.jpeg Size: 133.68 KB  Downloads: 270

.jpeg fm3-3.jpeg Size: 100.4 KB  Downloads: 244
]]> <![CDATA[C22 McIntosh preamp]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26425 Tue, 14 Apr 2026 20:32:10 -0500 morzh]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26425 I'd prefer to service it myself, but that was what was available, and then, OK, one job less. After all, I did not specialize in Macs. 

I did call the shop (they gave name in the ad) at some point, to ask some questions. They indeed existed.

So. I do not use it a lot, just occasionally. Recently I was listening to it, after having bought some new CDs, and the Tape Monitor switch dropped one channel. I wiggled it, it worked, and I decided it was time to use some Deoxit, for which today I opened the amp.

When I bought it, they did show some pictures that showed new caps (one being CE Manufacturing).
But today I saw some caps, the pics of which I have attached, that I do not think are new replacements.


So, I did spray some D5 inside the rocker switches, and am planning to replace the rest of the electrolytics.

.jpg PXL_20260414_235229943.jpg Size: 1.03 MB  Downloads: 251

.jpg PXL_20260414_234301011.jpg Size: 1.14 MB  Downloads: 224

.jpg PXL_20260414_234712480.MP.jpg Size: 2.97 MB  Downloads: 243

.jpg PXL_20260414_234822462.jpg Size: 843.2 KB  Downloads: 247
]]> I'd prefer to service it myself, but that was what was available, and then, OK, one job less. After all, I did not specialize in Macs. 

I did call the shop (they gave name in the ad) at some point, to ask some questions. They indeed existed.

So. I do not use it a lot, just occasionally. Recently I was listening to it, after having bought some new CDs, and the Tape Monitor switch dropped one channel. I wiggled it, it worked, and I decided it was time to use some Deoxit, for which today I opened the amp.

When I bought it, they did show some pictures that showed new caps (one being CE Manufacturing).
But today I saw some caps, the pics of which I have attached, that I do not think are new replacements.


So, I did spray some D5 inside the rocker switches, and am planning to replace the rest of the electrolytics.

.jpg PXL_20260414_235229943.jpg Size: 1.03 MB  Downloads: 251

.jpg PXL_20260414_234301011.jpg Size: 1.14 MB  Downloads: 224

.jpg PXL_20260414_234712480.MP.jpg Size: 2.97 MB  Downloads: 243

.jpg PXL_20260414_234822462.jpg Size: 843.2 KB  Downloads: 247
]]> <![CDATA[latest project realistic model STA-240 receiver]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26300 Sun, 22 Feb 2026 22:37:41 -0600 radiorich]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26300 I am currently restoring a Realistic model STA-240 Receiver for a friend of mine.
Its two main filter capacitors were low in value and had leakage.
So, I pulled a few more Electrolytics and decided to make list of ones to order.
So, between cold solder joints and scratch controls I started replacing the capacitors so far, I replaced about 30 and I decided to stop while my luck was good there about a dozen of the original ones in the whole set like 6 of them are on the Phono preamp board.

A little side note is this unit was built by  Matsushita for radio shahack and was only built for one year 99 % of the electroytics were Chem-Con .

Anyway Here is some photos of my handy work and you will see a few spots where traces lofted and I had to do some minor repairs .
The one thing I dread is to clean all the controls and switches I already did the speaker relay .
Sincerely Richard
.jpg IMG_0380.JPG Size: 1.77 MB  Downloads: 291

.jpg IMG_0387.JPG Size: 1.68 MB  Downloads: 204
]]> I am currently restoring a Realistic model STA-240 Receiver for a friend of mine.
Its two main filter capacitors were low in value and had leakage.
So, I pulled a few more Electrolytics and decided to make list of ones to order.
So, between cold solder joints and scratch controls I started replacing the capacitors so far, I replaced about 30 and I decided to stop while my luck was good there about a dozen of the original ones in the whole set like 6 of them are on the Phono preamp board.

A little side note is this unit was built by  Matsushita for radio shahack and was only built for one year 99 % of the electroytics were Chem-Con .

Anyway Here is some photos of my handy work and you will see a few spots where traces lofted and I had to do some minor repairs .
The one thing I dread is to clean all the controls and switches I already did the speaker relay .
Sincerely Richard
.jpg IMG_0380.JPG Size: 1.77 MB  Downloads: 291

.jpg IMG_0387.JPG Size: 1.68 MB  Downloads: 204
]]> <![CDATA[Philco 1715 Console stereo from 1968.]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26262 Fri, 06 Feb 2026 15:08:16 -0600 Phred M]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26262
I've seen advice (from audiophiles) that these are not worth restoring.  Disagree!  I repaired a similar Westinghouse and it sounds fantastic.  Added a Bluetooth function option too.  

The 1715's  receiver just came to life today, after replacing the power transistors, electrolytics, and the blown power transformer and rectifier.

The video (not sure if it posted) shows the 1968 version of a magic eye tube.  Love it!  Don't know why that idea didn't catch on.  

Can't wait to work it into its SIX cabinet speakers, including a pair of 18" woofers.   

BTW the Sam's Photofact for this model is amazing.  A big help.  And high-res.
.jpg IMG-15773614e0689f285ab2865ed927bbf8-V.jpg Size: 95.52 KB  Downloads: 124

.jpg 20251228_203029.jpg Size: 2.61 MB  Downloads: 184

.jpg 20250727_163805.jpg Size: 3.12 MB  Downloads: 203
]]>
I've seen advice (from audiophiles) that these are not worth restoring.  Disagree!  I repaired a similar Westinghouse and it sounds fantastic.  Added a Bluetooth function option too.  

The 1715's  receiver just came to life today, after replacing the power transistors, electrolytics, and the blown power transformer and rectifier.

The video (not sure if it posted) shows the 1968 version of a magic eye tube.  Love it!  Don't know why that idea didn't catch on.  

Can't wait to work it into its SIX cabinet speakers, including a pair of 18" woofers.   

BTW the Sam's Photofact for this model is amazing.  A big help.  And high-res.
.jpg IMG-15773614e0689f285ab2865ed927bbf8-V.jpg Size: 95.52 KB  Downloads: 124

.jpg 20251228_203029.jpg Size: 2.61 MB  Downloads: 184

.jpg 20250727_163805.jpg Size: 3.12 MB  Downloads: 203
]]> <![CDATA[R2R Projects]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26212 Sat, 17 Jan 2026 09:45:00 -0600 rfeenstra]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26212
.jpg DSC_2447LR.jpg Size: 536.66 KB  Downloads: 260


Otari MX5050 MKIII-2 1/2 track with 1/2 track and 1/4 track playback heads. It only records 1/2 track. The amplifier, bias section, power supply have been recapped with Nichicon and Panasonic electrolytics. Transport control logic board has not been recapped but works perfectly.  The heads have been lapped to remove wear from studio use over the years.  The machine is working great and sounds awesome.  I needed a half track machine because I have a bunch of 1/2 track masters from the 70's of organ recordings for several LP's.  I found this one on the Reverb web sight and bought it knowing it would neeed a lot of work.  Unfortunately tape from the 70's experiences sticky, shedding syndrome caused by the binder absorbing moisture.  I had to bake the tapes in a food dehydrator before they could be played to make digital copies.  Fun project!

.jpg DSC_2448 LR.jpg Size: 756.87 KB  Downloads: 249
.jpg DSC_2449LR.jpg Size: 906.4 KB  Downloads: 245


Ampex ATR700 (made by Teac for Ampex) 1/4 track deck.  Every electrolytic has been replaced with Nichicon or Panasonic caps.  The heads were lapped on this machine as well.  This machine is working well and sounds great.  I've had this deck for years but rarely used it until a friend needed a couple of old tapes transferred to digital. Managed to get it done but it was obvious the machine needed work.  It piqued my interest in getting it done.

I'm waiting for an alignment tape from Magnetic Reference Laboratory so that I can get the machines calibrated properly for head azimuth, record levels and response curves for NAB and IEC recording equalizations.  Tape speed has been calibrated using a marked piece of tape at 300 inches and used a stop watch to calibrate.

Both machines are 2 speed, 7.5 ips and 15 ips and are considered semi-pro machines.  They were often used in radio stations and recording studios to make copies of master tapes.  They certainly are not Studer's, or high end Ampex used as the primary recording machine.  But they are good enough for my needs.]]>
.jpg DSC_2447LR.jpg Size: 536.66 KB  Downloads: 260


Otari MX5050 MKIII-2 1/2 track with 1/2 track and 1/4 track playback heads. It only records 1/2 track. The amplifier, bias section, power supply have been recapped with Nichicon and Panasonic electrolytics. Transport control logic board has not been recapped but works perfectly.  The heads have been lapped to remove wear from studio use over the years.  The machine is working great and sounds awesome.  I needed a half track machine because I have a bunch of 1/2 track masters from the 70's of organ recordings for several LP's.  I found this one on the Reverb web sight and bought it knowing it would neeed a lot of work.  Unfortunately tape from the 70's experiences sticky, shedding syndrome caused by the binder absorbing moisture.  I had to bake the tapes in a food dehydrator before they could be played to make digital copies.  Fun project!

.jpg DSC_2448 LR.jpg Size: 756.87 KB  Downloads: 249
.jpg DSC_2449LR.jpg Size: 906.4 KB  Downloads: 245


Ampex ATR700 (made by Teac for Ampex) 1/4 track deck.  Every electrolytic has been replaced with Nichicon or Panasonic caps.  The heads were lapped on this machine as well.  This machine is working well and sounds great.  I've had this deck for years but rarely used it until a friend needed a couple of old tapes transferred to digital. Managed to get it done but it was obvious the machine needed work.  It piqued my interest in getting it done.

I'm waiting for an alignment tape from Magnetic Reference Laboratory so that I can get the machines calibrated properly for head azimuth, record levels and response curves for NAB and IEC recording equalizations.  Tape speed has been calibrated using a marked piece of tape at 300 inches and used a stop watch to calibrate.

Both machines are 2 speed, 7.5 ips and 15 ips and are considered semi-pro machines.  They were often used in radio stations and recording studios to make copies of master tapes.  They certainly are not Studer's, or high end Ampex used as the primary recording machine.  But they are good enough for my needs.]]> <![CDATA[Premier 88 Musical Instrument Amp]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26151 Tue, 23 Dec 2025 07:35:29 -0600 MrFixr55]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26151
I have a Premier (supposedly an 88 but it does not match the published schematic in any manner). I found it at the curb about 50 years ago.  It is built with Loctal tubes including 4 7B5s which are the equivalents to 6K6, and what appears to be government surplus capacitors from ARC5 aircraft receivers and even a few "dog bone" resistors.  The styling of the amp appears to be more 1940s than when it may have actually been made.  The amp case is a clamshell where the speaker is separated from the amp when in use.  The amp face is goldtone or brass plated with volume, treble, base and tremelo.  There is a footswitch jack.  The control panel is separate from the amp chassis.  The single 12" speaker is a Jensen, but with an electromagnet, powered by its own supply instead of being used as a choke in the amp's power supply.  The speaker grille cloth has a "lyre" design.

It appears to be a professional unit, but not from the "Rock" era, maybe from the "Big Band" era.  I will get around to it eventually.  If anyone ever heard of or seen one of these, I would love to get any info that you have.]]>
I have a Premier (supposedly an 88 but it does not match the published schematic in any manner). I found it at the curb about 50 years ago.  It is built with Loctal tubes including 4 7B5s which are the equivalents to 6K6, and what appears to be government surplus capacitors from ARC5 aircraft receivers and even a few "dog bone" resistors.  The styling of the amp appears to be more 1940s than when it may have actually been made.  The amp case is a clamshell where the speaker is separated from the amp when in use.  The amp face is goldtone or brass plated with volume, treble, base and tremelo.  There is a footswitch jack.  The control panel is separate from the amp chassis.  The single 12" speaker is a Jensen, but with an electromagnet, powered by its own supply instead of being used as a choke in the amp's power supply.  The speaker grille cloth has a "lyre" design.

It appears to be a professional unit, but not from the "Rock" era, maybe from the "Big Band" era.  I will get around to it eventually.  If anyone ever heard of or seen one of these, I would love to get any info that you have.]]> <![CDATA[Looking for info on this PHILCO FORD model]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26024 Sun, 28 Sep 2025 14:20:38 -0500 Leelee92]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=26024
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.jpg 20250928_151106.jpg Size: 2.23 MB  Downloads: 356
]]>
.jpg 20250928_151038.jpg Size: 3.19 MB  Downloads: 383
.jpg 20250928_151045.jpg Size: 2.8 MB  Downloads: 400
.jpg 20250928_151052.jpg Size: 2.78 MB  Downloads: 370
.jpg 20250927_111602.jpg Size: 3.37 MB  Downloads: 387
.jpg 20250927_111614.jpg Size: 3.49 MB  Downloads: 383
.jpg 20250927_111626.jpg Size: 3.32 MB  Downloads: 388
.jpg 20250928_144346.jpg Size: 3.13 MB  Downloads: 371
.jpg 20250928_151106.jpg Size: 2.23 MB  Downloads: 356
]]> <![CDATA[Mystery gadget]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25890 Fri, 18 Jul 2025 16:52:47 -0500 bridkarl]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25890
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.jpeg IMG_0460.jpeg Size: 520.21 KB  Downloads: 286


I paid $5 for this for the parts. I assume
it’s some kind of audio processor???]]>
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.jpeg IMG_0460.jpeg Size: 520.21 KB  Downloads: 286


I paid $5 for this for the parts. I assume
it’s some kind of audio processor???]]> <![CDATA[Looking for any info: 1977 Ford-Philco Console Hi-Fi Turntable and Radio]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25790 Sun, 18 May 2025 18:28:02 -0500 PittsburghToast]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25790
Ps: I am in love with it and have no plans of trying to resell it. Just looking for maybe more info, model name and maybe a current value. Thanks!
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.jpg 1000010162.jpg Size: 4.25 MB  Downloads: 563

.jpg 1000010163.jpg Size: 2.68 MB  Downloads: 505
]]>
Ps: I am in love with it and have no plans of trying to resell it. Just looking for maybe more info, model name and maybe a current value. Thanks!
.jpg 1000010157.jpg Size: 2.52 MB  Downloads: 716

.jpg 1000010162.jpg Size: 4.25 MB  Downloads: 563

.jpg 1000010163.jpg Size: 2.68 MB  Downloads: 505
]]> <![CDATA[EL34 PP amp build X2 - here I go again! (was 6L6GC)]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25768 Sun, 04 May 2025 15:38:01 -0500 TV MAN]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25768
As of this writing, I have the layout of the major components in place and it will be built similar to my previous attempt. I'm using a beefy Hammond PT with enough juice to put my voltages in the mid/high 400v range with 200+ma force. Enough filament for 20 tubes and 5 rectifiers (alright, maybe one current hungry 5R4 and a handful of sound bottles) and a nice affordable 50w UL, 5k output tranny. Yeah, it's from overseas (also eBay), but on some initial live power tests sounds very "alive". Trying to keep costs down and quality up. Most of the parts virtually bolted right in place with a half dozen new holes drilled to make it right. So far, very simple and straightforward. Sure, nitpickers will see some errors, but for a prefab, this is very affordable and works nicely with my choice of iron. Ok, so just how am I gonna use triode/pentode drive in an octal hole? Well, a nice little 9pin to octal adapter! Oh no, not one of those hobcob socket adapters that sticks up 2" with a variety of different sockets hanging out the top! Nope noooo, this is a real adapter that allows me to screw a 9pin socket into an octal hole! And, I think it looks "factory"!

Now, this is NOT a kit, nor is it a sacrificed/modded kit. This is a fresh, ground up build and has been a goal of mine since a youth. And yeah, it'll be a pair of mono blocks.

Anyway, below are a few pics of the proposed build to date, and will be a rainy day project through the summer. Yes, I have powered things up and "hum tested" to check the placement of my transformers. Even a 1/16th inch movement makes a difference (PT powered up and headphones connected to speaker wires).

.jpg IMG_8440a.jpg Size: 143.62 KB  Downloads: 586

Chassis kit. This came with bottom, wood sides, speaker posts, power cord & plug, line control, feet, knob, screws, input jacks - just about everything exc tube sockets and components. It's a little narrower than the kits, but deeper and thicker.
.jpg IMG_8443a.jpg Size: 234.32 KB  Downloads: 558

Holes drilled
.jpg IMG_8450a.jpg Size: 142.34 KB  Downloads: 576

My choke screwed perfectly to to the inside rear of the chassis, and the power trans covers the recess hole for the laydown trans designed for. Had to trill a couple mounting screw  holes. The output tranny lined up almost perfect, however I did also have to drill a couple mounting screw holes and enlarge a hole to allow the primary wires to pass through the chassis. The secondary used the existing hole (and grommets). You can also see my socket adapter which sandwiches the 9pin bracket between the chassis and adapter and allows you to turn the socket any direction needed. It's solid and doesn't move at all. No mods to the chassis so if I decide to use an octal tube, it's a simple drop out and replace with octal socket. I also mounted the filter cap on top of the chassis, but found that if I need to use the hole for another socket, it can be mounted underneath near the PT using a strap bracket. I can also go SS on the rectifier and free up a hole, but as of now, I'm planning on a bulb. I also drilled a 1/4" hole on the rear near the power plug for a mini switch and enlarged an existing hole on top near the driver tube for a bias control. It can also be enlarged if I want/need to add an additional 7 pin driver tube if needed. Control can be moved somewhere else or put underneath the chassis.

.jpg IMG_8451a.jpg Size: 128.61 KB  Downloads: 582

 
The Mk3 diagram - which is identical to the Mk4 exc for the output tubes, choke, and couple very minor component value differences. I'll likely use a variant between the two and slightly different bias supply since my PT doesn't have a bias winding. I'll likely use a 6U8a or 6GH8a driver tube, but if it doesn't perform well, the 6AN8a tubes are readily available, just a little more costly, but still reasonable. I'll wire it in such as way as 6CA7 (EL34) can be used with a minor bias adjustment (pin 1 grounded).
.jpg IMG_8456a.jpg Size: 139.89 KB  Downloads: 549
]]>
As of this writing, I have the layout of the major components in place and it will be built similar to my previous attempt. I'm using a beefy Hammond PT with enough juice to put my voltages in the mid/high 400v range with 200+ma force. Enough filament for 20 tubes and 5 rectifiers (alright, maybe one current hungry 5R4 and a handful of sound bottles) and a nice affordable 50w UL, 5k output tranny. Yeah, it's from overseas (also eBay), but on some initial live power tests sounds very "alive". Trying to keep costs down and quality up. Most of the parts virtually bolted right in place with a half dozen new holes drilled to make it right. So far, very simple and straightforward. Sure, nitpickers will see some errors, but for a prefab, this is very affordable and works nicely with my choice of iron. Ok, so just how am I gonna use triode/pentode drive in an octal hole? Well, a nice little 9pin to octal adapter! Oh no, not one of those hobcob socket adapters that sticks up 2" with a variety of different sockets hanging out the top! Nope noooo, this is a real adapter that allows me to screw a 9pin socket into an octal hole! And, I think it looks "factory"!

Now, this is NOT a kit, nor is it a sacrificed/modded kit. This is a fresh, ground up build and has been a goal of mine since a youth. And yeah, it'll be a pair of mono blocks.

Anyway, below are a few pics of the proposed build to date, and will be a rainy day project through the summer. Yes, I have powered things up and "hum tested" to check the placement of my transformers. Even a 1/16th inch movement makes a difference (PT powered up and headphones connected to speaker wires).

.jpg IMG_8440a.jpg Size: 143.62 KB  Downloads: 586

Chassis kit. This came with bottom, wood sides, speaker posts, power cord & plug, line control, feet, knob, screws, input jacks - just about everything exc tube sockets and components. It's a little narrower than the kits, but deeper and thicker.
.jpg IMG_8443a.jpg Size: 234.32 KB  Downloads: 558

Holes drilled
.jpg IMG_8450a.jpg Size: 142.34 KB  Downloads: 576

My choke screwed perfectly to to the inside rear of the chassis, and the power trans covers the recess hole for the laydown trans designed for. Had to trill a couple mounting screw  holes. The output tranny lined up almost perfect, however I did also have to drill a couple mounting screw holes and enlarge a hole to allow the primary wires to pass through the chassis. The secondary used the existing hole (and grommets). You can also see my socket adapter which sandwiches the 9pin bracket between the chassis and adapter and allows you to turn the socket any direction needed. It's solid and doesn't move at all. No mods to the chassis so if I decide to use an octal tube, it's a simple drop out and replace with octal socket. I also mounted the filter cap on top of the chassis, but found that if I need to use the hole for another socket, it can be mounted underneath near the PT using a strap bracket. I can also go SS on the rectifier and free up a hole, but as of now, I'm planning on a bulb. I also drilled a 1/4" hole on the rear near the power plug for a mini switch and enlarged an existing hole on top near the driver tube for a bias control. It can also be enlarged if I want/need to add an additional 7 pin driver tube if needed. Control can be moved somewhere else or put underneath the chassis.

.jpg IMG_8451a.jpg Size: 128.61 KB  Downloads: 582

 
The Mk3 diagram - which is identical to the Mk4 exc for the output tubes, choke, and couple very minor component value differences. I'll likely use a variant between the two and slightly different bias supply since my PT doesn't have a bias winding. I'll likely use a 6U8a or 6GH8a driver tube, but if it doesn't perform well, the 6AN8a tubes are readily available, just a little more costly, but still reasonable. I'll wire it in such as way as 6CA7 (EL34) can be used with a minor bias adjustment (pin 1 grounded).
.jpg IMG_8456a.jpg Size: 139.89 KB  Downloads: 549
]]> <![CDATA[One irritating little amp - VM 557]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25663 Wed, 05 Mar 2025 18:57:50 -0600 TV MAN]]> https://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=25663
Here's an interesting note ... back when I was a youth in the '70's, I had a VM 557 given to me - actually, I kinda took it. Was my mom's from her high school days in the '50s. Stand and all. I played that thing and played that thing. Loved it. But, like all things, it started to give trouble. It ALWAYS has a hum/hiss in the sound and would sometimes just up and shout out a nice feedback whistle. Mom said it would do that - since new! But, I still loved that old phono! It finally gave it up, volume dropped off, then would suddenly and without warning start blasting. Oh, and for a suitcase record player - that baby would crank! It finally did get so bad that it wasn't really usable so it got taken apart and that was the end. I still remember watching the trash guy throw it in the back of the truck. END.

So, what's so weird is that this amp I'm working on now - exhibits almost the EXACT same problems as that amp I had as a kid! So, I really want to solve this and take notes of just why and what the problems are! Wow! I may even take the original amp out of my present 557 and see how it acts. So, there's a reason I have a 557. It's something from my youth. Something I enjoyed a lot. And missed. So there ya have it. I'll include a schematic, but I'm betting I'm gonna have to completely redo, resistors and all. 

.jpg IMG_8993a.jpg Size: 212.43 KB  Downloads: 532

.jpg IMG_8995a.jpg Size: 121.8 KB  Downloads: 494

.jpg IMG_8996a.jpg Size: 168.83 KB  Downloads: 482
]]>
Here's an interesting note ... back when I was a youth in the '70's, I had a VM 557 given to me - actually, I kinda took it. Was my mom's from her high school days in the '50s. Stand and all. I played that thing and played that thing. Loved it. But, like all things, it started to give trouble. It ALWAYS has a hum/hiss in the sound and would sometimes just up and shout out a nice feedback whistle. Mom said it would do that - since new! But, I still loved that old phono! It finally gave it up, volume dropped off, then would suddenly and without warning start blasting. Oh, and for a suitcase record player - that baby would crank! It finally did get so bad that it wasn't really usable so it got taken apart and that was the end. I still remember watching the trash guy throw it in the back of the truck. END.

So, what's so weird is that this amp I'm working on now - exhibits almost the EXACT same problems as that amp I had as a kid! So, I really want to solve this and take notes of just why and what the problems are! Wow! I may even take the original amp out of my present 557 and see how it acts. So, there's a reason I have a 557. It's something from my youth. Something I enjoyed a lot. And missed. So there ya have it. I'll include a schematic, but I'm betting I'm gonna have to completely redo, resistors and all. 

.jpg IMG_8993a.jpg Size: 212.43 KB  Downloads: 532

.jpg IMG_8995a.jpg Size: 121.8 KB  Downloads: 494

.jpg IMG_8996a.jpg Size: 168.83 KB  Downloads: 482
]]>