[N Sheppard]

I have a 48-360. It is not working right now. I found the problem, it is the c100 (reference symbol) electrolytic multi-capacitor, service part number 30-2560. I cannot find anyone who sells them. I need to know who sells or repairs this capacitor.

[Aetna]

Hello,
You will need 4 separate capacitors to replace the 4-section electrolytic. justradios.com is a good place for capacitors.

cheers

[K7Sparky]

Look at the bottom of the cap and notice the symbols by each of the 4 leads.
On the side of the cap can you will see the symbols followed by the capacitance and voltage rating of that section.

Note that A,B & C the can is the - side and D bias resistor bypass is the can is + side.

The 10MF is still standard and any WV = or higher is fine

The 3 ea 30 MF are not std, higher is always better in filters so use 47MF = or higher WV

Remove the wires from the can when you install the new caps. A bit of heat shrink over the solder joint and leads is in order.

Some like to gut the can and stuff the new caps inside and reuse the bottom insulator and terminals. Depends if you are a masochist or not

I presume you have grabbed the manual from http://audiophool.com/Philco.html

[N Sheppard]

I successfully replaced the can capacitor with some modern electrolytics; however it is still not working. It seems like the on/off switch might be a part of the problem. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement? The part number is 33-5526. I have already replaced all of the resistors and tubes, and have ordered replacements for all of the capacitors.

[tab10672]

33uf is the closest standard replacement for 30uf. You can bypass the switch/vol pot to see if that actually is the problem before buying another.

[morzh]

N. Sheppard

First things first and I wonder why everyone immediately jumped on this cap:

Do not proceed unless full recap is done.
Then full inspection.

Then start troubleshooting.

PS. No one is really in the business of repairing capacitors, but if you are up to it, read many posts here and elsewhere about restuffing electrolytics. Otherwise just remove it and solder separate caps in place.

[thinktreasure]

I saw this post while searching for info. on this model.
Recently in sorting through some storage I tripped over this radio, I had forgotten I had it.
I thought, it's time to restore it.
It's in good shape, however the handle, which if i remember was falling apart is no longer with it, however the 2 end caps for it are there.
A quick visual on the chassis shows the can capacitor had actually exploded. It's all deformed and has at least one hole in the side of it. There is no other damage I can see but the can is badly deformed.
I need to find something to put in it's place. I don't care about the value it's just for show. I would put the correct values under it. I obviously don't even care if it's good just looks like it is !
Anyone seen someone selling a cap that has the same physical dimensions? or have a suggestion where to look?
Or maybe has a parts chassis?
I just can't leave the original in the chassis

As the original person who posted this said the philco number is 30-2560

I haven't pulled it or tried to measure it's dimensions yet.

[klondike98]

Don't know for sure but would guess the filter caps in the 46-350 might be similar. Jim is selling in the For Sale section.

[Radioroslyn]

Welcome to the Phorum!
After you get the paper caps replaced start your troubleshooting by cleaning the AC/Battery switch. Then see if the 117Z3 is lit? The other tubes are hard to see the filaments. Then Check the two dc outputs for the power supply the 80vdc and the 8.5vdc. The 8.5vdc is critical as it power the 1.5v tubes filaments. Too low will cause the local oscillator not to work and to high can burnout filament of a tube or two.

GL
Terry

[Raleigh]

I had a 46-350 with an electrolytic filter that corroded, burst, or fell apart with age and so couldn't be used even for display. Apparently this is pretty common in these radios.

I couldn't find a replacement, so in desperation I decided to make my own. Eventually I settled on PVC pipe that was almost the same O.D. as the original. I cut it to length, capped one end with a circle of stiff plastic, and used some modelers putty and 600 grit sand paper to feather the glued edge, though it really didn't need it.

Then I sprayed it with aluminum paint from Ace hardware, several thin coats. I took the mounting fixtures from the original cap by drilling rivets, then put them on my "aluminum" tube with small sheet metal screws.

My damaged original had colored wires coming out of the lower end, not lugs, so it was easy to put the new 'lytics inside my hand-made repro to save space inside the chassis. I used a rubber washer a tiny bit larger than the I.D. of the PVC to hold the caps inside the tube.

At a glance my home-made filter cap looks very good. The aluminum paint is a little darker than real aluminum, so it looks a little aged.

[thinktreasure]

I had a 46-350 with an electrolytic filter that corroded, burst, or fell apart with age and so couldn't be used even for display.  Apparently this is pretty common in these radios.

I couldn't find a replacement, so in desperation I decided to make my own.  Eventually I settled on PVC pipe that was almost the same O.D. as the original.  I cut it to length, capped one end with a circle of stiff plastic, and used some modelers putty and 600 grit sand paper to feather the glued edge, though it really didn't need it.

Then I sprayed it with aluminum paint from Ace hardware, several thin coats.  I took the mounting fixtures from the original cap by drilling rivets, then put them on my "aluminum" tube with small sheet metal screws.

My damaged original had colored wires coming out of the lower end, not lugs, so it was easy to put the new 'lytics inside my hand-made repro to save space inside the chassis.  I used a rubber washer a tiny bit larger than the I.D. of the PVC to hold the caps inside the tube.

At a glance my home-made filter cap looks very good.  The aluminum paint is a little darker than real aluminum, so it looks a little aged.





Thanks for the suggestion.  I may do something similar if I can't find a cap to use.

I have to get a closer look at it.

Steve

[thinktreasure]

I just got a better look at it.
I see why this happened. In the past someone did a repair, replacing the main filter with individual caps.
It's actually amazing they found caps small enough to work in the space that is available, at the time.
But they left the original cap connected!
Not a good idea.... it appears to have heated up and warped the cast cover, it also starting to fall apart
I may post photos later.
This one is like what was described, with individual wires coming out of it.
It's a bit of a mess on the bottom side.
The case of that cap is a casting.

I have a question about ac/dc operation.

It has a metal u shaped bracket on one side connected to a switch, I assume the switch to change it over.
But it's spring loaded and returns to a fixed position...not sure which AC or DC is the at rest position at this stage.

Someone please explain to me how they used this?

[Raleigh]

If it is like the 46-350, there is a rod coming out of the back of the chassis on the right side as you view it from the rear. A spring holds it in the "out" position, which automatically moves the switch for AC operation. Push the rod in, and it is set for DC operation.

There is a spring-loaded bracket attached to the side of the lid on the back of the cabinet. If you shut the lid with the AC line cord folded up inside the radio, that spring-loaded bracket pushes the rod in, connects the battery to the radio and disconnects both the AC line and the rectifier.

To operate on AC, you open the lid, which causes the rod to spring to the AC position. Then you swivel that bracket up by hand, and as it moves, a tab uncovers a slot on the side of the lid, just below that bracket. You run the AC line cord through that slot, and the cord itself holds the bracket up when you close the lid, so that the bracket misses the rod, leaving it in the AC position.

Back open -- automatically set to AC.
Back closed with cord entirely inside the radio -- automatically set for battery operation.
Back closed with cord in the slot -- automatically set to AC.

Don't ever push that rod in or let it out when the radio is plugged in and turned on. If you do you will instantly burn out the filament in the output tube. Don't ask me how I know this. Always turn the radio off and unplug the AC cord before switching between AC and battery power.

[codefox1]

Had a few of these pass through my hands, and once determined that batteries were not an option, ripped out al the associated switches and whatever and made the set work on AC. Of course that means making the set work on higher mains voltage today, expecially if doing away with the "117" type rectifier. It is also likely that the prior repairs have now themselves expired, and the capacitors at very least need to be replaced once again. Whatever, make sure by incremental advances in your variac that filament string is correct.

[thinktreasure]

If it is like the 46-350, there is a rod coming out of the back of the chassis on the right side as you view it from the rear.  A spring holds it in the "out" position, which automatically moves the switch for AC operation.  Push the rod in, and it is set for DC operation.

There is a spring-loaded bracket attached to the side of the lid on the back of the cabinet.  If you shut the lid with the AC line cord folded up inside the radio, that spring-loaded bracket pushes the rod in, connects the battery to the radio and disconnects both the AC line and the rectifier.

To operate on AC, you open the lid, which causes the rod to spring to the AC position.  Then you swivel that bracket up by hand, and as it moves, a tab uncovers a slot on the side of the lid, just below that bracket.  You run the AC line cord through that slot, and the cord itself holds the bracket up when you close the lid, so that the bracket misses the rod, leaving it in the AC position.

Back open -- automatically set to AC.
Back closed with cord entirely inside the radio -- automatically set for battery operation.
Back closed with cord in the slot -- automatically set to AC.

Don't ever push that rod in or let it out when the radio is plugged in and turned on.  If you do you will instantly burn out the filament in the output tube.  Don't ask me how I know this.  Always turn the radio off and unplug the AC cord before switching between AC and battery power.

It does not appear to be setup as you described.

I will upload some pix...

Here is the cap, the switch setup and back

Could it be something to do with the cord itself?


I figured out the battery switching.

As you see in the first photos, it's tough to figure this out, looking at it from the back of the radio

Once the chassis was out and the 1U5 and shield were removed a label on Z301 if can was visible.

The idea is simple, normally the radio defaults to AC operation.
But if you take the ac cord plug, and press that bracket down it reveals 2 slits that match the plug.
You plug the end of the cord in to keep it in Battery op.

See photo