[jerryhawthorne]

Chris, my guess on the oscillator tracking cap would be the one on top for the variable at the rear of the set. Seems they are usually on the rear section of a two section and on the smaller of the two assemblies. The front one should be for the antenna RF tuning.
Jerry

[ccomer1955]

Is there by any chance a chassis designation for the 167? I have the Crosley Service literature for 1932-1936, but the only thing I can find in it for the 167 is the schematic and a short description of the tube line-up and operation. Toward the end of the book, there are quite detailed descriptions of the operation and alignment procedures for many specific chassis. The description of the 7H3 goes on for pages for instance. Perhaps I can find a set for your 167.

[BrendaAnnD]

Chris,

I'm surprised no one else has said anything, but I really suggest that you do not leave any old caps in the set, whether it is working well right now or not. The reason is that these old caps can short in an instant, and you could end up with a power transformer meltdown. It's not a pretty thing. I've had it happen to me..

[Paul Philco322]

You have it out of the cabinet and are already working in there. Brenda has a point. Much like the mechanic who tells you when he is knee deep in your engine that he can do your timing belt easier now and cheaper now than when you come back in a few thousand miles to have him take all the stuff off again to fix it. I have seen some folks though replace just bad caps and just leave other caps in if not leaky. Almost like they enjoy opening the patient again.

Most these days do them all. It is a neat little set. hope she turns out well.

Paul

[EricS]

Ooo-la-la! Inspiring job on the chassis, Chris!

[OZ4]

OK so I did go ahead and replaced all the rest of the caps and aligned it. Now it works pretty good.

Next I got to work on the cabnet. If you noticed most of the molding on the base of the cabnet was missing.

[OZ4]

The original molding was fluted and very difficult to make. And since this is no specal radio I decided to make my own from some molding I picked up from Home Depot. After cutting it down on the table saw it looks like this. With a little paint to help match the color of the other wood before toning.

[OZ4]

After much trial and error this is how it turned out. This is the first time I have used  Mohawk tone spray. I found in some ways it's much easier to use than stain and other way it's harder. I used the extra dark walnut for the base.

[OZ4]

As for the rest of the cabinet. I looked online and found pictures where it was finished all different ways. I couldn't find any pictures of what I thought was an original finish. So here's how I like it.

I used mostly perfect brown on the rest of the cabinet, which I found to have a reddish tint to it. And the extra dark walnut for the accents. A little bit that goes a long way.

I used semi gloss lacquer for the finish. Sorry it's not gloss. This thing is pretty rough looking with gloss on it.

The escutcheon for the dial was silver and I didn't think that was appropriate so I gave it shot of perfect brown.

And the the grille cloth was too brassy before I gave it light dusting of perfect brown. This was the closest I could find to the original pattern and color.

[OZ4]

And lastly the rear view.  You can't see them but I used faucet washer for the spacers under the chassis. They worked real nice.

So that's it for this radio.

I have a new project I may post soon.

Thanks again for all the encouragement.


Chris

[klondike98]

Great job Chris! 
When you gave the chassis the naval jelly treatment, what was your process?  How long did you let it sit on the chassis before the steel wool treatment?  Did it take multiple applications of jelly?  How did you protect the paper label on the back of the chassis? Thanks!

[OZ4]

The navel jelly  is easy. Just be careful not to let go into places you don't want or can't clean it out. The worse the corrosion the longer it takes to eat it up. The light stuff is quick only about fifteen minutes. I usually do more than one application for the heavy stuff even overnight. It just can't dry out or it doesn't work.  If the rust is really bad there are pits left behind. After steel wool I like to wipe it down with a damp to wet paper towel soaked with a water-baking soda solution.
Navel jelly is phosphoric acid. It sounds really bad but its not.
It doesn't seem to bother labels or printing much as long as they are not paper.
And the metal should be sealed soon afterwards or it can rust again.

Chris

[klondike98]

Thanks for the info.  I think I've not been leaving it in long enough. 

[PhilcoJohn]

WOW....WOW Great job !! By looking at the first pictures and then the final pictures the way the radio turned out,you would not think that it is the same radio. Hats off to you!

[Arran]

If it looked sort of rough after lacquering that may be because it the cabinet needed to be grain filled, it's just about impossible to get a nice gloss finish over walnut, mahogany, or any other open grained veneer without it.
Regards
Arran