[wazz]

My Hickok 533A meter has an issue that when it comes back to zero from some higher scale reading it overshoots, contacts the left stop and the needle sticks, sometimes. But a flick of the finger and it returns up to zero. So otherwise it moves freely. What could cause that? Not that it is a serious problem like midscale hangups.

[Alan Douglas]

Could be a particle of corrosion that's been nudged to that end of the gap.

[morzh]

Alan

But the overshoot, doesn't it look like some sort of discharge? It should not do that in the first place, no?

[TV MAN]

I kinda had to put my tester resto on hold until I get my bench set up. I mentioned in another thread things took a detour, and my shop is becoming my sons room, so I am not going to tackle sneaking into that meter until I have my magnifying light and bench set up, some nice soothing music and lots of toothpicks .

Mike might have a point if that meter slams down to 0. May be time to check the cap on the meter. If it is a just a "fallback", that may be normal. I have been using this tester sitting on it's front so the meter doesn't stick. In that position, the meter needle "falls" back a lot harder then when I have it on it's back. I have another tester that I use some that I have to be careful when switching one of the controls because it likes to slam the needle. I had to figure out the best combination to minimize. Following the manual wasn't the best in this case. I'll have a thread on this also once I have my bench set up.

[Alan Douglas]

If it actually goes negative, one switch contact may be opening/closing before another. You could also add an electrolytic across the meter, or increase the one already there. Polarity doesn't particularly matter.

[codefox1]

Just replace the existing electrolytic wired across the meter if you have not already done so (as well as the restof the electrolytics whilst you have the set apart.

I believe you can get an 83 tube for around $20 delivered, I only have one spare for my Hickok, maybe someone else has plenty. They last a long long time despite laying horizontally (verbotten?) in use.

[morzh]

If I spent my years horizontally I'd last for 200 years......

[TV MAN]

Anyone here know if the 6000A meter will work in the 600A? Looks like it, exc for the transistor test part at the bottom.

[John R]

Anyone here know if the 6000A meter will work in the 600A? Looks like it, exc for the transistor test part at the bottom.

Unfortunately, No.   Check free downloads on the following: http://www.stevenjohnson.com/hickok/data.htm
The 600A meter movement is 233 ohm, 500 uamp. Hickok 66G, Pt. # 660-005.
The 6000A meter movement is 1165 ohm, 100 uamp. Hickok 66K, Pt. #660-125.
Do a search for Hickok parts as I saw somewhere, can't remember where, that someone was selling Hickok meters/parts- but was not cheap of course.

[TV MAN]

Wow! Thank you John! Saved me the hassle of possibly getting the wrong meter. I did see a place that sells and repairs meters, but he wasn't cheap. Lost his info when my computer crashed out. Oh well. Thought if the meters were the same , I would still have a chance if I ruined mine trying to repair.

[thirtiesradio]

I don't know if this is the same place you looked at, but you can buy a new meter here....   http://www.alltubetesters.com/ Just click on parts and then new replacement meters. Roger sells them in black and in clear. Not cheap

[TV MAN]

Thanks for the links and info! Alltubetesters was the one I lost. I think he priced a new meter for just over $200, and I read a meter repair is $135 plus S$H. The Steve Johnson site I have bookmarked, so hopefully I wont (almost) make any more mistakes like I about did. Still in midst of the remodel. Progress noted. Bench still covered with carpentry tools instead of radio test equipment. Mouse moved to kitchen - still evading traps.

[K7Sparky]

Madmurdok

In the way back machine (Rocky & Friends) we always tapped the meter in the tube testers in the drug & grocery stores while testing.  They always stuck a little.

Look on BAMA for manuals and other data.

The best tune up I've seen uses an isolated Variac to inject voltage and set results.  IMHO the "reference" tubes are just an OOC problem being propagated.

You noted a diode replacement for the 83 and may or not have filament supply load resistor to get current up enough to get line voltage down to adjustable range.

I have a 800 that I cleaned up and calibrated (voltage injection) and have been thinking about doing a front end regulator or voltage control to deal with the reduced current of ripping out the old tubes (no filament current) and replacing with diodes.  No filament load resistor heat & I don't burn up a lot of current for nothing.  My hesitation is what happens in the test data charts on power tubes.  Little ones don't draw enough line current to worry me about the readings.

Yea my meter sticks a bit also and I always tap it and would even if it didn't stick - old habits don't die.

DO NOT use any lube on meter pivots - as was already said.

I've been rebuilding meters for years and the best advise I can offer if you decide to learn the art is buy a bunch of old meters you don't care about to learn on.  You WILL make mistakes even if you have a meter Tech looking over your shoulder and whacking you on the head.  As was said get plenty of light and a magnifying head band - Harbor Freight or other.

Testing tubes will find shorts or opens.  One that is "Good" will probably work anywhere, while ? or "Bad" might work fine also.  You just gotta try em in the circuit and see.  Might work in one circuit and not another.  Testers are also good for matching parallel or push pull output pairs.  Not just the 2 best ones if you have several to choose from  - the 2 closest matched.

An unsubstantiated SWAG if tubes have survived this long, they will soldier on unless abused.  The Getter will only capture so much Oxygen the rest will deteriorate the tube.  The few old tubes that got the best vacuum pulled have survived while the others are long gone.