06-21-2016, 02:45 PM
Started to test the tubes and found that the 3-42's and the 75 where in good shape, 3 of the 78's weren't and the 77 was nothing brag about either. The rf amp tube 78 was replaced with a 77, it will work but it screws with the avc voltage as they have a different grid cutoff voltage. Found some better 78's and a new 77. Got to put 78's on my Ktown list.
Spun the chassis around to have a look at the dial mask and cap drive system. One of the reasons the dial was dim was:
That's the front of the dial lamp.
Got the setscrew for the lower pulley(bandswitch) but the setscrew behind the dial is stuck tight, it's soaking in PB Blaster. Need to get all that part because fine tuning slips and it's gross/dirty.
Here's a few pics of the under side with the e caps rebuilt and the 42 socket replaced. Looks a little tidier as there where some old repairs (connecting new caps across the old) that are gone now.
Am waiting on an order from Sal's to come in with needed mylars. Should be here soon. Then I'll start on the Bakelite caps and resistors.
Terry
Spun the chassis around to have a look at the dial mask and cap drive system. One of the reasons the dial was dim was:
Got the setscrew for the lower pulley(bandswitch) but the setscrew behind the dial is stuck tight, it's soaking in PB Blaster. Need to get all that part because fine tuning slips and it's gross/dirty.
Here's a few pics of the under side with the e caps rebuilt and the 42 socket replaced. Looks a little tidier as there where some old repairs (connecting new caps across the old) that are gone now.
Am waiting on an order from Sal's to come in with needed mylars. Should be here soon. Then I'll start on the Bakelite caps and resistors.
Terry
