Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 16B
#6

I don't recommend that, because then you have to fill the cut with wood putty, which will show afterwards. (I know because I tried, and it didn't work. Then I had to fill the cut with wood putty.)

However, I discovered a trick today: I had bought an old iron at a yard sale this past weekend for 50 cents. I purchased this specifically to iron veneer onto substrate, in order to speed the setting time. I learned this from watching a video made by "Hagstar" John H.:

http://hagstar.phanfare.com/slideshow.as...id=3128328

I've been slacking off on my studies this week to work on a Philco 44B cabinet, as mentioned previously. The cabinet was in really bad shape, and the grillework was delaminating badly. I used my yard sale iron to help glue the veneer back onto the front panel and front arch.

Anyway, figuring I had nothing to lose, I decided to try using the iron on the side of the cabinet where some air bubbles were showing.

It worked! It seems to have made the air bubbles go down.

I turned the iron temperature all the way up when using it on the cabinet. The iron does not scorch or burn the wood if you work carefully.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN


Messages In This Thread
Philco 16B - by w4rtc - 10-18-2010, 01:54 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by Ron Ramirez - 10-18-2010, 04:34 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by w4rtc - 10-20-2010, 01:11 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by Ron Ramirez - 10-20-2010, 01:20 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by DeckApe - 10-20-2010, 03:12 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by Ron Ramirez - 10-20-2010, 04:11 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by w4rtc - 10-20-2010, 06:16 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by Ron Ramirez - 10-20-2010, 06:26 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by Steve Davis - 10-21-2010, 09:11 PM
Re: Philco 16B - by w4rtc - 10-21-2010, 10:09 PM



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)