01-12-2011, 07:09 PM
Hi Tkline and welcome!
Your set is the same model I have had since 1968. One of my first 'old' radios. When I used it, it played very well, and I logged many shortwave and AM stations on it.
I still have it, however I am not powering it up again until I change the original capacitors.
First off, you can find the schematic diagrams here, which include the dial cord stringing diagram.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/637/M0013637.htm
Next, since the set was working well in the past, you would only need to replace the 'filter capacitors' first, then test to make sure your installation was correct.
Next you should replace the other smaller capacitors. You could leave the others alone, but soon you might need to replace one or more that are not working right, so it is best to do then while the chassis is out of the cabinet. The main 'filter capacitors' are in the power supply section of the set, and they filter your current that passes to the rest of your set. They are critical to have working right. You have heard a radio that has a hum in it? That's an indication that the filter caps have dried up and not working.
This is the reason, after 62+ years, the old 'caps' have dried out and usually don't work as they should. Even if a set works on it's old parts, you will be onb borrowed time before they fail. Sure, you could use the set, but if a filter cap fails, it can take out a transformer, speaker, or other hard to find part. "Recapping' is a good way to have a reliable and safe operating set for many more years.
I suspect that the tubes will be fine. If you have access to a tube tester, that will be on your list in the process.
Here are a couple of links I pass on to others new to the hobby that explains a little more about the caps.
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/plugin.htm
http://antiqueradio.org/powerup.htm
Changing these parts is not hard, but it must be done carefully. Do you have any experience in soldering or electronic work?
I am not sure, Ron can fill us in, but there could be some rubber insulated wires under the chassis. If the insulation has rotted and showing bare spots, it must be replaced. We can help guide you with that if need be.
Lubing all moving parts, cleaning off all the dust that may be on the chassis, and using a little contact cleaner on the pushbutton assembly are part of the process. That will make for smooth control operation and static free pushbutton operation. Re-stringing the dial cord is not hard to do, and you can either buy dial cord, or some even use dacron fishing line (Not monofilament)
Lastly, some of those tube are of the Loktal type. These are used by many Philcos and were made to 'lock in' to their sockets. Unfortunately, they have a tendancy to get oxidized pins that must be cleaned off for good contact. Once cleaned they work just fine.
There is a method to take those tubes out , some don't know about. On the base of the tube, there is a little raised dimple. Gently rock the tube in the direction of that dinple back and forth toward you. It should come out easily.
I will stop here, but this gives you a little idea of how to properly get the radio going again so it will be safe and reliable.
If you are good at working on things, being careful and asking questions, you will have no problem in getting your radio playing like new. I am sure your father would be happy that you have restored it.
Take care,
Gary.
Your set is the same model I have had since 1968. One of my first 'old' radios. When I used it, it played very well, and I logged many shortwave and AM stations on it.
I still have it, however I am not powering it up again until I change the original capacitors.
First off, you can find the schematic diagrams here, which include the dial cord stringing diagram.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/637/M0013637.htm
Next, since the set was working well in the past, you would only need to replace the 'filter capacitors' first, then test to make sure your installation was correct.
Next you should replace the other smaller capacitors. You could leave the others alone, but soon you might need to replace one or more that are not working right, so it is best to do then while the chassis is out of the cabinet. The main 'filter capacitors' are in the power supply section of the set, and they filter your current that passes to the rest of your set. They are critical to have working right. You have heard a radio that has a hum in it? That's an indication that the filter caps have dried up and not working.
This is the reason, after 62+ years, the old 'caps' have dried out and usually don't work as they should. Even if a set works on it's old parts, you will be onb borrowed time before they fail. Sure, you could use the set, but if a filter cap fails, it can take out a transformer, speaker, or other hard to find part. "Recapping' is a good way to have a reliable and safe operating set for many more years.
I suspect that the tubes will be fine. If you have access to a tube tester, that will be on your list in the process.
Here are a couple of links I pass on to others new to the hobby that explains a little more about the caps.
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/plugin.htm
http://antiqueradio.org/powerup.htm
Changing these parts is not hard, but it must be done carefully. Do you have any experience in soldering or electronic work?
I am not sure, Ron can fill us in, but there could be some rubber insulated wires under the chassis. If the insulation has rotted and showing bare spots, it must be replaced. We can help guide you with that if need be.
Lubing all moving parts, cleaning off all the dust that may be on the chassis, and using a little contact cleaner on the pushbutton assembly are part of the process. That will make for smooth control operation and static free pushbutton operation. Re-stringing the dial cord is not hard to do, and you can either buy dial cord, or some even use dacron fishing line (Not monofilament)
Lastly, some of those tube are of the Loktal type. These are used by many Philcos and were made to 'lock in' to their sockets. Unfortunately, they have a tendancy to get oxidized pins that must be cleaned off for good contact. Once cleaned they work just fine.
There is a method to take those tubes out , some don't know about. On the base of the tube, there is a little raised dimple. Gently rock the tube in the direction of that dinple back and forth toward you. It should come out easily.
I will stop here, but this gives you a little idea of how to properly get the radio going again so it will be safe and reliable.
If you are good at working on things, being careful and asking questions, you will have no problem in getting your radio playing like new. I am sure your father would be happy that you have restored it.
Take care,
Gary.
