[Chas]

Kudos on that .03 cap selection...  

Here is some general tips, from the images you have posted. That AC cord is tied to a dual AC line bypass cap (Bakelite block) these are also paper and have been known to "explode" making a foil/paper mess.

Though the proper AC line rated caps may not fit the inside the block they can be tied externally to the block after disconnecting originals. These two caps "should" be "Y" type caps but can be "X" type (across the line) rated. This type of cap if/when it fails, is designed to fail open and not short which could be a issue as opposed to "rapid disassembly" of a paper cap. Keep the same MF value of these caps.

When working in and around the coil area, antenna or oscillator avoid disturbing or re-routing of any wires and make repairs in as much to keep same mechanical position and robustness. "Practically" any disturbance in this area will likely mean an alignment will be required to get dial markings to agree with the real signal and uniformly across the dial as well as overall sensitivity. Never turn the screw on any mica trimmers unless a RF generator is available.

Any caps that are of mica construction, although are lesser suspect, generally should not be "shotgun" replaced. Because mica caps are almost always in tuned circuits their actual value is critical as well as they may be of temperature compensating construction, "Temco" . Mica caps should not be rotated on the axis of their connecting wires, the twisting can dislodge the internal connection to the mica stack and break a seal at the wire entrance, use a dental mirror to see the identification. Mica caps that have split open casings are suspect but, again, should not be replaced until the radio is operated to evaluate. Obviously a shorted mica will have to be replaced, but care taken to properly identify.

Though I don't think that tubular ceramic "temco" caps are used in this radio they could be, often seen as appearing like a "dogbone" resistors, but marked with colored dots. Only the schematic or consultation can determine what such a cap is, if it is spoiled. Same rules, test before replace and replace as exact as possible. These ceramic caps are found in the RF area.

Be aware of wires without connect, wrapped around another wire or even lay adjacent. These are "gimmicks" and must not be disturbed unless the insulation is crumbling, then duplicate as much as possible. Gimmicks may or not be shown in the schematic and may or not appear as an adjustment on alignment instructions.

Final, note: The power transformer could be "live" tested. Remove or disconnect any power rectifier (unplug the tube). Other tubes can be left in place if confident there are no shorts in the filament or filament wiring, same applies to the pilot lamps. Pilot lamp sockets do short.

When all is well, power the radio, the lamps will light and the tubes will glow. If, in 5 minutes or often less a cracking is heard within the transformer or a bad burning smell, the transformer is already ruined. If not, carefully monitor for another 1/2 hour. if transformer is reasonably cool to touch and no other signs of a short, the transformer is good

When done with the refurbishing, many restorers do a "dim bulb" test, this test establishes if there is an overload from erroneous repair.

Alternately, before applying first power, use an old school VOM and connect the negative to B- (the chassis) and the positive to the filament circuit of the rectifier (highest B+), look for at least 5k ohms and resistance rising (as filter caps charge)to the value of any series of shunt resistors in the radio, usually 20K. If this "sanity check" is valid it is safe to power the radio.

I will admit that faults in the 6F6 circuit can cause a dramatic rise in "B" current working in that area of this radio you should be confident of the connections.

It is possible to make a "live" "B" current reading. Measure the value of the resistors from chassis ground to the center-tap HV of the power transformer. Record this value, then switch the meter to volts, place the positive of the meter on the chassis connection and the negative on the center-tap of the power transformer HV secondary.

Power the radio, as the radio warms the voltage will rise if there is no other obvious fault, the apply the meter volts to ohms law, the value of the resistance measured. that will be the total "B" current for the radio. Looking for a calculated value of at least 50ma but more likely 70 or so ma. Each radio stage will be around 5 to 10ma but the 6F6 will be as much as all other stages combined..

The current monitoring is just a tell tale, actual values could be closely calculated from schematic notes. Values in the schematic are made with a certain meter type, if a meter with a different load resistance is used, readings may not agree and could lead to errors in fault finding.

The most often cause of failure of a refurbishing is "shotgunning" without interim testing, so any error becomes lost. Wire snips, miss-connected wires, shorts, solder blobs at terminals and sockets are problems too.

All of what I have stated for this Philco radio are, essentially, applicable to any brand of radio.

There are, some nuances that I have likely missed, often when I restore these are so routine as to become oblivious.

Here is one: Do not "trust" riveted electrical connections to the chassis. Even though your best meter says the connection is "O.K." it cannot determine it the connection is sensitive to any RF. Re-solder as a routine and if there is too much chassis heat sinking, drill out the rivet and replace with hardware. Most chassis soldering will require an iron with a large copper bit, often 125 watts or more. The chassis can be pre-heated to accomplish this with a heat gun. Fifty years or more, the solder at the metal interfaces is subject to inter-grannular corrosion.

GL

Chas