11-03-2013, 09:57 PM
Oh no. I replaced the capacitors one at a time with a matching capacitor. I checked all of the connections for continuity between the appropriate post and wire lead and they all checked out fine.
The only part that has me a little worried is the electrolytic capacitor. The old ones I removed were replacements to the originals at some point in time and they were the wrong values according to the schematic. On my schematic it calls for one 18 mfd cap and one that says 8-8. The ones I pulled out were a 40 mfd in place of the 18 mfd and a 20+20 which had replaced the 8-8. The 20+20 was tube with the positive side having 2 wires come out and the negative side having 1. I'm assuming that there were actually two 20 mfd capacitors inside that tube based on that configuration. My replacement caps are one 20 mfd and two 10 mfd. This in my eyes is much closer to the schematics. With the two 10 mfd I wired their negative wires together to achieve the same type of configuration. This is the only part I really had to guess on. It makes sense to me, but it still has me a bit worried.
Andrew
The only part that has me a little worried is the electrolytic capacitor. The old ones I removed were replacements to the originals at some point in time and they were the wrong values according to the schematic. On my schematic it calls for one 18 mfd cap and one that says 8-8. The ones I pulled out were a 40 mfd in place of the 18 mfd and a 20+20 which had replaced the 8-8. The 20+20 was tube with the positive side having 2 wires come out and the negative side having 1. I'm assuming that there were actually two 20 mfd capacitors inside that tube based on that configuration. My replacement caps are one 20 mfd and two 10 mfd. This in my eyes is much closer to the schematics. With the two 10 mfd I wired their negative wires together to achieve the same type of configuration. This is the only part I really had to guess on. It makes sense to me, but it still has me a bit worried.
Andrew
