10-15-2014, 05:13 PM
I have rewired both IF transformers, polished both cans, and both are reinstalled in the chassis. Here's a look at the 1st IF transformer just before I put it back on the chassis:
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00009.jpg]
To disassemble this type of transformer, you have to remove the large adjustment heads which are screwed onto the threaded screws that adjust the slugs. It helps greatly to screw the slugs in several turns to make sure there is enough room to get the assembly out of the can. Count the turns and write these down. On this IF, I screwed each slug in 10 turns. Then you have to remove the two caps (for lack of a better term) which the adjustment screws go through; these hold the IF assembly onto the can.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. You have to be really careful with these. The cans will not tolerate having those caps removed and reinstalled too many times. You can see the heavy scratches around the caps. One too many removals/reinstallations of these and the cans will simply break here. Don't ask me how I know.
Once reassembled, don't forget to screw the slugs back out again! Sure, you will have to align this transformer anyway, but you want to be able to pick up signals and not be left thinking that something else is wrong!
This is the first IF can I've ever seen that had the grid lead running on the outside of the can. The wire runs along the top of the chassis and then passes through one of the rivets which holds the IF tube socket in place, very close to the 7B7E grid pin.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding the dial lamp sockets. I still need to rebuild the electrolytic caps, also. But this one is getting close to completion.
[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...e00009.jpg]
To disassemble this type of transformer, you have to remove the large adjustment heads which are screwed onto the threaded screws that adjust the slugs. It helps greatly to screw the slugs in several turns to make sure there is enough room to get the assembly out of the can. Count the turns and write these down. On this IF, I screwed each slug in 10 turns. Then you have to remove the two caps (for lack of a better term) which the adjustment screws go through; these hold the IF assembly onto the can.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. You have to be really careful with these. The cans will not tolerate having those caps removed and reinstalled too many times. You can see the heavy scratches around the caps. One too many removals/reinstallations of these and the cans will simply break here. Don't ask me how I know.
Once reassembled, don't forget to screw the slugs back out again! Sure, you will have to align this transformer anyway, but you want to be able to pick up signals and not be left thinking that something else is wrong!
This is the first IF can I've ever seen that had the grid lead running on the outside of the can. The wire runs along the top of the chassis and then passes through one of the rivets which holds the IF tube socket in place, very close to the 7B7E grid pin.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding the dial lamp sockets. I still need to rebuild the electrolytic caps, also. But this one is getting close to completion.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
